Cagey’s Neurochrome Modulus 686 build

If I understand correctly, If I get the perforated bottom plate, I don't need to drill the bottom of the chassis, except for the feet?

I can also make the mezzanine out if a sheet of alloy?

Should I get the 1mm "iron" covers, or the 3mm aluminium ones?

Jim, there is nothing quirky about the 686.

My comment about the KIN is based solely on performance, not on its matching ability.

You can literally plug a KIN into anything.

The 686 Is also quite happy being on a passive, an active or valve or SS....but EVERY amplifier and preamp should be matched for impedance or you'll never get the best out of either.

Doesn't matter what it is.

The 686 is happiest at 10k according to Tom.

Croft preamps and amps are the anomaly, as they have rarely played well with anything else I've tried them with and 100% sound best with their own kind.

Yes, but you need to know when to stop jumping down rabbit holes in search of audio Nirvana.
The 686 will be the last major change for a while.

I don’t class the BB3 as a major change, as I have most bits, except the case and Traffos.

I am sure it will be a big change acoustically, but not not financially.

Ok, so going with WBT sockets, so need to add 12mm holes into the cad file.

Next question, do the VIBORG CF201 just drop into a Neutrik socket? I can't see the full dimensions for the fixing holes on the Viborg.

Just worked it out, 24mm  between centres, so should be ok.

Suitably current rated, 10 amps+, a filter won't hurt. Though with the psrr of the 686 its largely moot

Just been checking the details, and it seems that the hole centre distance has changed with the rev. 1.1 686 board.
I am glad I spotted that before I launched the order for the case.
I have updated the CAD file. I think I am good to go now.

Personally I would mount the 686 boards low on the heatsinks rather than towards the top.

I was mounting it that way due to signal paths, and locations of the sockets.
I shall however lower them following the advice received.

Thanks gents.

If I am mainly going to run this with RCA input, there seems little point in fitting expensive XLR sockets. I think a set of Neutrik will do nicely for now.

If I ever go balanced later, I can update the sockets then.

I am going to get all the bits I need to build the amp together, ready for an enforced Christmas lockdown.

Me too...

I am missing a few parts. It is likely to be early December before I have all of the boards I need.

Just choosing the plugs.
Looking at WBT pure copper RCA sockets, Furutech mains socket. Cheap and nasty XLR sockets (will only be used to short out the required pins while using the RCA inputs.
Speaker binding posts, again tempted by pure copper WBT.

I also need some cabling, so thinking of OCC hook up wire for signals, and maybe OCC for the speaker connections. Certainly getting a bit pricey....

What concenrs me is this statement "CMC high purity copper content". Brass has a high copper content, but this states that they have some high purity copper in them.

I was thinking of some WBT-0210Cu.

"Charming Music Conductor"

Thanks for the link.


Binding posts?