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Post by rexton on Oct 4, 2020 16:53:29 GMT
The stock arm when fettled is extremely good. I'm afraid I removed mine and replaced it with a Alphason HR100s. I also didn't like all the fussy linkage system with the 75. I just fixed my idler arm into place with a decent wedge of bluetac. I think in the end I managed an accuracy of 33.2 rpm +/- 0.1 or 2 RPM. Are you keeping your stock?
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 4, 2020 17:23:08 GMT
Hi Andrew
Not sure yet , I think I will to start with. I will need to respray the top plate though as it has a few nicks etc in it. I do want to have a go at restoring the arm too.
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 4, 2020 17:34:34 GMT
Ye olde idler wheel  |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 4, 2020 18:14:03 GMT
motor off , heavy old lump!  |
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Post by jimbo on Oct 5, 2020 5:48:24 GMT
Hey Electro great to see another Lenco restoration. There is another option with the tonearm if you dont feel like sorting the flaking chrome. If you look on Lencoheaven there is a chap who replaces that part with a carbon fibre arm wand. I think Brian who posts on this site has one on his stock Lenco and he may well pop a picture up for you?
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 5, 2020 9:34:02 GMT
Hey Electro great to see another Lenco restoration. There is another option with the tonearm if you dont feel like sorting the flaking chrome. If you look on Lencoheaven there is a chap who replaces that part with a carbon fibre arm wand. I think Brian who posts on this site has one on his stock Lenco and he may well pop a picture up for you? Thanks for the heads up, I have been looking at Lenco Heaven. There is a lot of info on there! I haven't decided what to do yet with the arm, I think I'll see how hard it is to rewire first. |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 7, 2020 12:33:55 GMT
Got some nice new red lithium grease for the bits and pieces. 😎 Will try and sort the motor out this weekend.  |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 12, 2020 15:44:36 GMT
Operation motor muck off has commenced. First off dismantling the lump.   |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 12, 2020 16:08:28 GMT
All apart , I have 2 new sintered bearings to replace the old ones with once done.   |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 12, 2020 16:29:08 GMT
Old v shiny new   |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 12, 2020 16:33:38 GMT
Tried them on the motor shaft, they are a noticable snugger fit, not tight but less play in them. Seems like a worthwhile investment.  |
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Post by sq225917 on Oct 12, 2020 17:47:23 GMT
They are bloody lovely motors, same as the G99, shaded pole, virtually zero cogging by design. One day I'll make a belt drive using one and a synthesised ac drive.
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Post by brian2957 on Oct 12, 2020 17:51:32 GMT
Can you tell me ( link ) where you got the sintered bearings from please  |
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Post by dsjr on Oct 12, 2020 17:54:29 GMT
A note regarding the idler... The plastic hubbed ones are good for very little and when new, were far noisier than the metal hub type which replaced them (multi-holed at first, then solid with two small holes). I have examples of each and have compared them recently. The idler arm is on a flexible mount supposedly for good reason, but it's actually the motor condition and suspension that can transmit noise into the stylus. I had two motors available and one was much quieter than the other (idler completely removed and stylus sitting on a stationary platter). Stripping the noisier one out, lightly cleaning and re-lubricating the bushings and inverting the thrust plastic sheet in this case, tightening up the stator screws and re-setting up with just the right of load on the sprung outer bearing (around 1mm sprung play) seemed to reduce the drone substantially. The fifty odd year old review also suggested a substantial reduction in 'rumble' from the motor by reducing the supply voltage by at least 10%. The platter doesn't kick' up to speed as it usually does, but I'm damned if I could hear the crap that some people argue by doing this - pitch is still spot on and non-wavering... One thing I have a huge issue with some of the Lenco-carvers is the removal of the idler retraction device on switch-off. ALL it takes is 72 hours left stationary and you have a nice motor pulley size flat in the idler, as I discovered a few weeks ago on the GL69 I've been having fun with. Lenco put it there on all models for damned good reason and to my shame discovered why! It took some 'massaging' of the tyre plus oil application and subsequent clean to even begin to put it to rights. This chap here does a splendid bearing mod and excellent V-Blocks for the hugely underrated arm, which is fine for many modern cartridges at not silly money, the peek pad version of the bearing thrust pad seemingly perfect for doubled platter decks. Spin down (without the brake) from 33 to stop is substantially increased and if the 'special' he did for my 69 is anything to go by, remaining noise is drive and mostly motor related. I have a spare 69 bearing (not as heavy duty as the massy platter version) and Dave did a special kit for me to experiment on the other www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Main-Bearing-Mod-for-Lenco-GL75-similar-heavy-single-platter-turntables-V2-1/193440604862?hash=item2d09f562be:g:Z-8AAOSwE6dfBfahwww.ebay.co.uk/itm/V-Blocks-for-Lenco-GL75-72-78-68-69-etc-Turntable-Tonearm-Vertical-Bearings/193453166089?hash=item2d0ab50e09:g:lAQAAOSwrIxea2WCI got to know him on Facebook and he seems one of the good guys and very helpful. P.S. I had a downer on some Lenco bearings, especially later ones as Lenco didn't seem to oil or grease them, relying on the charge in the sintered sleeves for lubrication (my first GL75 and a certain G99 I knew had grease at the bottom which removed any slop - see the 1969 HFN review to explain). I used my now favourite slideway ISO 68 oil which is sinter-safe and stays put better than motor oil does and all the slop/rock in one of my bearings completely disappeared... If I'd known this thirty odd years ago it would have been very handy. Probably granny sucking eggs above for some of it and a load of bollix for the rest, I don't know, but the Lenco's I have here seemed to respond to it. They're potentially damned fine decks and old criticisms of the tonearms not applicable as much today. Single plate (plus spacer) headshells can be readily obtained as well, making it easy for GoldringE series, AT VM95's and Ortofon 2M's to be fitted. - Good Lord, MCRU sells them -
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 12, 2020 18:07:14 GMT
Can you tell me ( link ) where you got the sintered bearings from please Sure , not cheap but I figured worth it in the long run. www.ebay.com/itm/261819388983 |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 12, 2020 18:10:19 GMT
@djsr
Thanks for the links, I will replace the idler at some stage. There seem to be a few options but will probably go for the Audiosilente one. I think once its up an running I will look at main bearing improvements. And will certainly consider the more reasonably priced ones!
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Post by brian2957 on Oct 12, 2020 19:50:31 GMT
Thanks mate . If I'm stripping the motor these are a must IMO .
I use the Audiosilente idelr wheel and it's excellent . It also comes with several spare rubber and silicon ' O' rings .
It's totally silent in use .
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2020 19:53:41 GMT
@djsr Thanks for the links, I will replace the idler at some stage. There seem to be a few options but will probably go for the Audiosilente one. I think once its up an running I will look at main bearing improvements. And will certainly consider the more reasonably priced ones! If I'm not mistaken, I think this is the chap and he can be found on The Wam: www.hifiwigwam.com/forum/profile/118271-g8ina/ |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 12, 2020 19:54:45 GMT
They are bloody lovely motors, same as the G99, shaded pole, virtually zero cogging by design. One day I'll make a belt drive using one and a synthesised ac drive. Not that I strup many motors at all but it seema very forgiving to work on. |
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Post by rexton on Oct 12, 2020 21:01:22 GMT
@djsr Thanks for the links, I will replace the idler at some stage. There seem to be a few options but will probably go for the Audiosilente one. I think once its up an running I will look at main bearing improvements. And will certainly consider the more reasonably priced ones! If I'm not mistaken, I think this is the chap and he can be found on The Wam: www.hifiwigwam.com/forum/profile/118271-g8ina/Audiosilente have a great reputation and companies such as Audiograil and I think Classic Turntable Company install these as normal to garrard 301 and 401 restorations, so the Lenco variation should be good. I use a carbon fibre idler wheel on my 75 that runs silent. I might actually get a Audiosilente idler wheel for my 401 just for the hell of it. |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 17, 2020 16:49:03 GMT
Had time to rig up a mains lead to test the motor after the relube etc. dodgy lash up with an earth attached to the block. 🥴  |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 17, 2020 16:52:37 GMT
But it's working, so a bit of fiddling with the tension screw and that will be a job done.  |
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Post by rexton on Oct 17, 2020 16:57:59 GMT
It's alive!
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 18, 2020 13:53:29 GMT
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 18, 2020 13:57:22 GMT
Finally goatt all the other bits off the tol plate. will clean it up and see how it looks before deciding on a respray etc.   |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 18, 2020 15:51:33 GMT
Fouand a use for some of the component bags I have left over from the Bigbottle build lol.  |
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 27, 2020 20:21:53 GMT
ok so I have been considering what to do re the plinth and arm. I would like to see if I can rewire the arm and revamp it but apparently this is not so easy. If successful I think it would be nice to keep the top plate as stock. But I'll respray the top plate ,prob a different colour. I am leaning towards British Racing Green , a Shindo look a likey🤣🤣. The colour of my roadbike which I like a lot.
If it doesn't work out for some reason I'll fill the top plate extra holes cut a hole for a rega arm as I have my old OL modded one still. The advantage of this is thay I can fit my Uniarm on it too if I feel I would like a change. Also, I won't need to spend anything on an arm.
Part of me really wants to sort out the Lenco arm though🙂
With the plinth, I like the style of the one that it came in and the lid is in good nick, but the woodwork is knacked. So I think I will make another carcass to that same size and style and reuse the lid . This will be from 18mm birch ply as I have a load left over from the Tannoy build. That way I can reuse the lid.
As the new carcass will effectively be hollow I thought I could buy a raw unfinished solid plinth for about £100 from the bay and slot it in. So I would get the much talked about benefits of a new solid plinth but the style of the old one.
I can then finish the plinth how I like, probably a veneer of some sort.
That's the direction I think I'm headed 🤠, also looking at bearing options.
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Post by jimbo on Oct 27, 2020 21:27:03 GMT
Great to see another Lenco project in the making. I am sure you will come up with a great turntable. So many routes to go down especially when you deviate from the original design!
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Post by electronumpty on Oct 27, 2020 21:44:06 GMT
Thanks, godd to have some thing on the go for winter. Never heard a Lenco so it's a completely new game for me.
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Post by jimbo on Oct 28, 2020 6:44:03 GMT
Thanks, godd to have some thing on the go for winter. Never heard a Lenco so it's a completely new game for me. I have one sitting on my lounge floor and may get it a spin just to remind me what they sound like. |
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