Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 12, 2018 12:23:23 GMT
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Post by dsjr on May 12, 2018 12:39:48 GMT
What you do is take the LP12 to the nearest skip and dump it in. Headaches and set-up problems removed at a stroke
OL ruin donor Rega arms for instance and their old add-ons were badly conceived and finished I remember, so the only set-up guide I'd follow is Linn's own and they owe this procedure to Naim's JV, who taught me via Jimmy Hughes in around 1977 when he took my year old LP12 to set it up properly..
What you shouldn't do is worship the Leicester based 'Cymbiotic' Linn Guru, as he'll empty your wallet in 'upgrades' in five minutes flat and get anal over washer even-ness and spring-grommet matching as I used to. The thing still sounds coloured after his ministrations, but you'll have the best set-up LP12 currently out there probably
Everyone else should buy a Spacedeck with RB330 at least and smugly grin your backsides off
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 12, 2018 12:55:06 GMT
What you do is take the LP12 to the nearest skip and dump it in. Headaches and set-up problems removed at a stroke
OL ruin donor Rega arms for instance and their old add-ons were badly conceived and finished I remember, so the only set-up guide I'd follow is Linn's own and they owe this procedure to Naim's JV, who taught me via Jimmy Hughes in around 1977 when he took my year old LP12 to set it up properly..
What you shouldn't do is worship the Leicester based 'Cymbiotic' Linn Guru, as he'll empty your wallet in 'upgrades' in five minutes flat and get anal over washer even-ness and spring-grommet matching as I used to. The thing still sounds coloured after his ministrations, but you'll have the best set-up LP12 currently out there probably
Everyone else should buy a Spacedeck with RB330 at least and smugly grin your backsides off The OL guide was penned by Jimmy, by the looks of it. I didn't realise until I got to the end though. I have a copy of the Linn guide electronically somewhere. Last time I dabbled with an LP12 was about 10 years ago. They are musical enough, but there's better out there used for less IMO. I used to buy Lp12 bits and build them up for fun, but my only interest these days would be some sort of Frankenstein creation with some of my own ideas in there. Springs wouldn't feature, that's for sure.
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Post by dsjr on May 12, 2018 13:04:23 GMT
Why? Linn worked bloody hard on getting the springs true and consistent and any slight bounce imbalance is tuned with different grommets The main issue is dynamic wow with lower compliance mc cartridges and maybe this is better now. The motor area fourth bolt helped sink remaining motor vibration into the plinth and away from the sub-chassis and the Tangerine Audio (I think) top plate removes this at a stroke by not being springy as the standard plate is. All these mods are very expensive and as I said a few times today here and on HFS, a Spacedeck is better in all the LP12 strength areas in my opinion still. Despite the latest improvements, a stock LP12 is still slightly soft-focus - I haven't heard the mega-priced versions though in which case I'd look first at an NAS Dias which is a Spacedeck but larger and with quieter backgrounds amongst other refinements...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2018 14:11:30 GMT
The London based Derek Jenkins, is supposed to be very good at LP12 setting up.
S.
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Post by dsjr on May 12, 2018 15:31:00 GMT
I think he is too. I remember him from Infidelity days.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 12, 2018 15:35:13 GMT
It's not a name I have heard, but then again, I'm a long way away from London. Maybe I'm not sufficiently savvy, or I've been playing with decks too long, but I don't really see setting up a Linn as a black art. Just a bit of practical application. Nothing in Jimmys guide was new to me or particularly revelatory, so I'm not sure what I'm missing,
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Post by dsjr on May 12, 2018 15:41:31 GMT
It's when they don't cooperate that it all goes wrong. That's when an expert comes in... I used to be good, but it's a long time ago now...
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 12, 2018 16:19:01 GMT
It's a pretty flawed design and implementation in so many ways. Here's a few that spring to mind from my novice standpoint.
1 the top end of the springs can shift. It also sometimes pinches the grommets. 2. The suspension isn't based around the centre of gravity 3. The motor is in the wrong place 4. Downward stretching springs creates a pendulum effect 5. No ability to adjust from above. Things like Aplhason Sonata and Michell Gyro/Orbe put into shame 6. Fitting a heavier arm often throws a spanner in the works. The springs really need different loading to work in this scenario (IMHO) 7. The older fixing fro successes to armboard is shite 8. The subcjhasis is crap, rings and can warp.
I must confess to not liking sprung decks full stop, but pick virtually every other one and it's a less flawed design than the Linn.
Feel totally fee to disagree with any or all. I'm a layman and always keen to learn.
If I was making a Frankenstein LP12, here are a few mad ideas. I'd ditch the springs and subchassis for anti vibration mounts or upward facing springs which were securely located in recesses. I'd use a split plinth made from Acrylic. I'd place the motor at 8 o clock and I'd copy the Xerxes sprung motor arrangement, or perhaps even change it to a DC one. Finally I'd use the much cheaper Axis platter which sounds better to me anyway.
There are a million and one Linn parts out there used. I'm really surprised people aren't realising their own designs and ideas using them. What's the worst that can happen? I reckon you could build something special for £300 ex arm inc motor and PSU.
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Post by dsjr on May 12, 2018 17:01:51 GMT
1, Later grommets were harder compound and the springs sat fine in the ones I set up and checked years later 2, Can't argue that one. It's all Thorens fault for doing the TD150 this way and Hamish Robertson's for specifying such a massy platter system when he stole the basic TD150 concept to beef up. Latest outer platters have had some mass shaved away I'm told. 3, Who says so? PT's Arthur with a mod kit to sell? 4, The springs are in compression so no stretching. The supposed issue here is the very heavy platter on top wants to up-end itself, dynamically I understand like a Porsche 911 tail wagging the rear wheels out on hard cornering, which Porsche minimised with later thick-tyred versions. 5, Thank Gawd for that, as numpties would wreck it! Later samples with harder grommets don't usually sag more than a mm or so initially and stay where they are in my experience. 6, Jimmy H used Zetas with no difficulty, although the suspension needed to be dropped a bit so the arm just cleared the lid. This is where the skill of an experienced setter-upper comes in 7, Making a more positive arm-board fixing - at the time - wrecked the sound - we tried it! Maybe today it's different and with the newer sub-chassis designs, but not back then! 8, The glued sub chassis doesn't ring with the arm board on it and earlier attempts to make the coupling more solid were awful musically, but since everything's been changed now, things may be very different today. The main weakness was the main bearing fixings (Martin Colloms did a successful mod in the late 80's by gluing a drilled Perspex block around the bearing housing and to the sub chassis, once an article in HFN) and the full Cirkus kit took it further by allowing the revised bearing housing to bolt solidly to both laminates of the old sub chassis rather than just one. The bass waywardness was significantly reduced albeit with a generally 'dark' tone, but I even began to like the ARO after the Cirkus came out and the Ekos sounded increasingly 'clanky' to me (wash my mouth out!!!). Why I'm defending the effing thing I don't know, but my living and reputation was made on setting these things up until 2004, so I have to spout forth here, sorry! Thing is, I can get a vintage Technics SL1500 with minor removable tweaks to sound as good or better with careful cartridge, mat, exit wiring and headshell as well as removing the lid, so why bother with an overpriced LP12 apart from old times and it's endearing appearance? P.S. I had an old colleague/friend who was working back at KJ part time until early last year. KJ now once again sell Naim (Statement Amp too!) and Linn as well as D'Agostino and ARC brands and associated Top End confections now out of my league. Derek Jenkins (Tangerine Audio mods?) does a lot of work there on a freelance basis I was told and I harboured ideas of trying to collect some cast off bits and hobbling an LP12 together. I then found he does this himself (as does Peter Swain in Leicester) and can make a tidy profit on such cobbled decks, so that idea went out of the window. So much better out there now. A £600 Rega 3 today, lacks the bass warmth colouration, but the mid and top are excellent now and with careful cartridge choice I think (2M Bronze is a favourite) it cam sound very 'right' with vinyl, if not as charming as a good fruitbox can be.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 12, 2018 17:18:45 GMT
If haven't tried a later Rega 3, so my experience doesn't stretch to lots of the new bits like the newer motor and the plinth brace. Also I only know RB250 amd 300. The basic design always did sound good to me anyway, especially with an MC cart. I always harboured ideas of getting a split plinth version (remember them) but my mate had one and it didn't sound any better to him or me than we would've expected from a standard Rega 3.
I would've loved to dabble in some Frankenstein turntable madness here, but the bits were just too hard to get here. I will be better placed to dabble in a few weeks, but I will also have a shed load of the other sort of DIY too, so I will be going from having too much time and nothing to do, to very little time and loads on my plate. First thing will be to get a listening room set up. Then I'm going to cook up some speaker cables to a Mr Wonfor recipe!
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Post by antonio on May 12, 2018 17:32:42 GMT
John (Analogue Innovations) thinks he's sorted out the spring problem with his bobbins.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 12, 2018 18:17:49 GMT
John (Analogue Innovations) thinks he's sorted out the spring problem with his bobbins. I don't suppose you have a link or a product name I can search for, springs are the wrong solution IMO and I'd love to see what he's come up,with.
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Post by dsjr on May 12, 2018 19:43:20 GMT
I've said too much really but shall close with this - as far as I can see and hear, the current RB330 arm is rather 'free-er' than the original RB300. Not something you could easily pin down possibly, but every little helps I think.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 13, 2018 6:42:10 GMT
I still like the LP12 for all its old design. I haven't heard a later model but I am sure they will be technically better. I just enjoy the sound and the pleasure of using mine. I domt really want it to change,
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Post by antonio on May 13, 2018 9:56:41 GMT
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2018 18:55:54 GMT
John (Analogue Innovations) thinks he's sorted out the spring problem with his bobbins. I don't suppose you have a link or a product name I can search for, springs are the wrong solution IMO and I'd love to see what he's come up,with. They are called in soles and you can find them at the anologue innovation room at the cross over network forum. I have had some for months but have not got around to fitting them yet. Sorry John.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 19, 2018 19:06:56 GMT
I don't suppose you have a link or a product name I can search for, springs are the wrong solution IMO and I'd love to see what he's come up,with. They are called in soles and you can find them at the anologue innovation room at the cross over network forum. I have had some for months but have not got around to fitting them yet. Sorry John. Cheers, Stu. I've always thougt springs were the wrong solution. It's great to know someone else who actually knows somethig thougt the same!
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2018 10:52:57 GMT
There are a few with these "in soles" fitted and love what they do. I will find out eventually when i get around to fitting them.
John R (alfi) also believes in moving the motor position to the 7.30 position. He doesn't believe the cirkus upgrade is necessarily an upgrade.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 20, 2018 12:48:26 GMT
There are a few with these "in soles" fitted and love what they do. I will find out eventually when i get around to fitting them. John R (alfi) also believes in moving the motor position to the 7.30 position. He doesn't believe the cirkus upgrade is necessarily an upgrade. From what I know and have seen of John R. He seems a top bloke and never promotes his stuff. Presumably his gear does he talking for him.
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Post by dsjr on May 20, 2018 13:54:27 GMT
I'm sure he is a top bloke, but he's on a loser really isn't he? Linnies will loudly dismiss his updates and th eonly third party modifiers who've got away with it appear to be Tangerine Audio who work in a few London Linn dealers (Infidelity and KJ at least)…
I don't know what the issue is with the springs. Linn worked damned hard to get these stiff laterally and free vertically, the belt I thick and recoil with the platter not an issue on LP12's - it is with Thorens. The Funk method of adding extra rotating sub-pulleys adds rumble and unreliability to the thing and moving the motor may add unwanted hum fields - far better to stop the thing vibrating in the first place as the various external power supplies have done. In fact, the Armageddon Kit (giant bloody transformer and basic phase converter) made the motor smoothest of all I remember and made the later Cirkus LP12 sound just like an early one from 1976 or thereabouts - to me anyway...
Just get a proper bloody turntable!!!
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2018 14:17:38 GMT
I have a pl71 as well dave
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Post by dsjr on May 20, 2018 15:34:40 GMT
Well, it wasn't around long enough or good enough looking in comparison with others to stand out *at the time* but I was readily shown how bloody good it is by *you know who.* I like it very much indeed and as long as the switches and so on are behaving, you'd have to spend a hell of a lot more (thousands I think) to get genuinely 'better.' I've heard it with the SPU, which sounds over-ripe, lush and dull elsewhere and also with the rare Empire 1000GT, which didn't seem as 'collapsible' as the popular Empire 1000ZE/X was and in the PL71, it sounded excellent. the real surprise was the SPU, which would beat a Thorens belt drive at a 4g tracking load and probably most early direct drives which speed-hunted under load too. In the PL71 it offers superb 'master tape like' poise, the ripe bass becomes a powerful bass, musical but not 'overpowering' and the midrange is precise, stable and 'clean' as can be, so in musical terms you can dip in and out of the mix effortlessly to hear what instruments normally smothered in the mush are actually playing.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 20, 2018 18:27:47 GMT
Off topic a bit, but have you heard the Sony PS-X9 Dave. I've picked one up but it will be some time before I actually get hands on with it.
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Post by dsjr on May 20, 2018 19:44:01 GMT
Ooooh, an EMT-inspiration made in Japan? Course I haven't heard decks like this - very sadly... The nearest we ever got was the SP10 II (I think it was the II but could be the III in obsidian plinth and matching Techie tonearm). The best Sony we ever had was the rare and rather wonderful PS-8750 and this was when the TTS-8000 could be got in Germany! Not sure I blame Linn for all of it, but the 'LP12 mentality' did have a lot to do with it from the mid 70's onwards. I suggest that when you do get your mitts on it, I'd site it very carefully even if it weighs a ton and if my suspicions are correct, you may never need to worry about 'turntables' ever again
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 20, 2018 20:17:13 GMT
Ive wanted to try one for ages. The seller (rightly) won't ship so I am relying on a distant relative to collect for me when they are next in that part of the world. It does look nice in an industrial,sort of way,
I had a PS-6750 which was initially a significant step down from my Xerxes/Xenon MCS (both running AT33s). Putting an Origin Live mat in place of the Sony's gel mat closed the gap to were I wouldn't have been able to tell the two apart. I've never heard two decks sound so similar, yet the technologies couldn't have been farther apart.
I kept the Sony because it was a pleasure to use, less fussy about siting and far cheaper than the Xerxes. As good as it was, I hardly used it, I just enjoyed the look and feel of the Xerxes more. I've had a few over the years and I'm kinda emotionally attached to the deck.
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2018 20:54:20 GMT
Does the Xerxes have a particular sound signature?
S.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 20, 2018 21:02:45 GMT
Yeah it's very "up-front". I'd say it tends to favour leading edges and it has a very propulsive bass. It starts and stops as well as any deck I've ever heard and this makes it a good contrast to the bounce of the LP12. Some very clever engineering went into the Xerxes and I feel it shows in the sound, I've always found its pitch stability to be excellent too. It was indistinguishable from the Sony DD in this respect.
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Post by dsjr on May 21, 2018 8:49:32 GMT
I have a feeling the Rokan may have preferred lower (total) mass arms. The one I heard regularly back then was Jimmy's fitted with a Breuer (spelling?) arm and this pairing was superb and gradually ousted his LP12's I remember (last I saw in a pic was that he uses a modern Thorens I think). The set-up was supposed to be tricky, but the one or two I looked at didn't seem over difficult.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on May 21, 2018 9:43:48 GMT
I have a feeling the Rokan may have preferred lower (total) mass arms. The one I heard regularly back then was Jimmy's fitted with a Breuer (spelling?) arm and this pairing was superb and gradually ousted his LP12's I remember (last I saw in a pic was that he uses a modern Thorens I think). The set-up was supposed to be tricky, but the one or two I looked at didn't seem over difficult. Funny you should say that about massy arms, but the only time I've heard a Xerxes sound "off" was with an SME IV, which is massier than most. I hadn't thought about it until you mentioned that just now. Alphason Xenon and HR100s are gorgeous on a Xerxes. The mix of their subtlety and finesse with the Xerxes brutishness just seems to work. Mayware Formula IV also sounded lovely in a different way. I love that arm in so many ways although it breaks so many conventions I previously thought were essential. I need to hear more uni pivots.
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