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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2018 18:28:24 GMT
The stuff you’ve soldered is beyond my comprehension.let alone capability. How people can solder onto chip legs etc just staggers me. I think I do be much better with a cordless iron, but even still, I don’t have that dexterity. I don't make a habit of soldering to chip legs but have done it. Its so easy to cook an ic with too much heat. Never desoldered or soldered anything with more than 8 legs. Some can desolder dac chips and other multi legged chips. Maybe one day but would have to practice on some junk pcb's. Soldering well is an art form and the more you do it the better you get. I still remember my first attempt. Mr blobby comes to mind.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2018 7:42:33 GMT
Still wondering if the cheapo £3.43 dac can be wired into my cdp. I have it here out of the case and started to trace and draw out the circuit ages ago. Problem is its so bloody small and no way of knowing what dac chip it is. I have not heard this dac as I don't have anything to plug into it. What is the sound stage like from it Dave ? That is one area where the TDA1305 chip is weaker than I would like.
There are I2S lines between the SAA7376 decoder chip and TDA1305 dac chip in the CD3.5. They all have resistors in the pcb trace and it would be fairly easy to lift one end of the resistor and somehow feed it to the new dac.
Much more research needed to even begin to attempt that one.
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Post by dsjr on Oct 12, 2018 11:07:30 GMT
Apologies for what follows -
The dac chip doesn't matter I'm told, but in the past, the following filter and audio output side once fitted as separate items meant far more. I'd suggest getting an Arcam Alpha 5 and tweak that as Les W does - may be easier to separate bits out and there was provision to disable the onboard dac and add the Alpha 6 dac-output board as well.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2018 14:06:38 GMT
Apologies for what follows - The dac chip doesn't matter I'm told, but in the past, the following filter and audio output side once fitted as separate items meant far more. I'd suggest getting an Arcam Alpha 5 and tweak that as Les W does - may be easier to separate bits out and there was provision to disable the onboard dac and add the Alpha 6 dac-output board as well. I value your input Dave. Les W does some killer mods to the Arcam. And it has 1541 dac chip which is a bonus. Funny thing is I auditioned several Arcam units 20 years ago and was not drawn to them over the Naim. Thing is I am so emotionally attached to this CD3.5 now I will probably get buried with it. Bought it new in 1997 after my then fiancé left to go to University and I never saw her again . It is the only component that is still in my main system all these years later. I have studied its contents, done countless modifications to it and it still pleases me with wonderful music. The output stage - I agree that is where most of the sound differences are made. And I have proved it to myself with different opamps, psu's, regulators, resistors and coupling caps. The thing is that getting rid of it altogether has brought a change that I like and holds true to my now keep it simple philosophy. I would say the Naim sound is in the output stage (and the psu's to a degree as well) and I have just bypassed it and still like the music. In fact I might go on to say I prefer it without but I will hold back on judgement until it has more hours and music under its belt. We both know someone online who hates filters Well that is all the output stage is (and a buffer). I am hearing details I have never heard before and a reduction in fatigue. They don't go hand in hand in most cases.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2018 14:21:15 GMT
Oh, and if what you say about the dac chip not being important then why does the £3.43 dac sound so good ? Apart from the big multi legged chip there are only two 3 legged components on the whole board. Rest are just caps and resistors. The two 3 legged components are labelled Q1 (transistor) and P1 ( ?). I would suggest there is very little of what you would call an output stage in it. There are a number of unused pcb pads including some for an eight legged chip which is not there. Stu
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2018 18:52:24 GMT
Todays modification (i cant leave it alone) was to move my preamp into the CD3.5. Well i say into but it has no lid on, is on a 60cm sheet of chipboard and all the power supplies are on the chipboard around the player.
I changed the resistor value to ground in my potential divider to bring the volume up to near where it was prior to bypassing the output stage. I used 768R but ideally it should have been 820R but the next value i had above 768 was 1K and that would have been too loud.
So, very short silver wires in teflon from cd3.5 to potential divider and from there to 3 pairs of phono socets glued to the chipboard. I had a 1 metre TIS between cd and pre before so that has been used between cdp/pre to the diy avondale voyagers on bass duties. NVA based aps already had 75cm TIS.
I think it made an improvement getting rid of a cable and several sockets, plugs and joints. Not to mention the fact that the volume control (fixed) is very near the dac output now.
I can compare with before i bypassed the output stage much more accurately now as the volume is nearer what it used to be. Still slightly quieter but it has enabled me to say that the output stage is now history.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 12, 2018 19:44:07 GMT
Todays modification (i cant leave it alone) was to move my preamp into the CD3.5. Well i say into but it has no lid on, is on a 60cm sheet of chipboard and all the power supplies are on the chipboard around the player. I changed the resistor value to ground in my potential divider to bring the volume up to near where it was prior to bypassing the output stage. I used 768R but ideally it should have been 820R but the next value i had above 768 was 1K and that would have been too loud. So, very short silver wires in teflon from cd3.5 to potential divider and from there to 3 pairs of phono socets glued to the chipboard. I had a 1 metre TIS between cd and pre before so that has been used between cdp/pre to the diy avondale voyagers on bass duties. NVA based aps already had 75cm TIS. I think it made an improvement getting rid of a cable and several sockets, plugs and joints. Not to mention the fact that the volume control (fixed) is very near the dac output now. I can compare with before i bypassed the output stage much more accurately now as the volume is nearer what it used to be. Still slightly quieter but it has enabled me to say that the output stage is now history. I loved that mk1 TIS, but I guess even it can’t beat no cable at all Seeing Dave mention the Avondale Arcam Alpha 5 reminded me that Les also modded the CD3 and the CDI. I’m guessing Les likes the TDA1541. Cant fault his taste, cos I still think it has a magic about it.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2018 19:49:47 GMT
Aye, good old Les loves a cdp with 1541 in. I must go visit him sometime soon. Thing is i always come away with a car full of parts. I do so wish the 3.5 had that chip in it but hey ho, cant have everything. Maybe i should buy another cdp with one in and bodge the hell out of it. Bodgeneering rules ok.
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Post by dsjr on Oct 13, 2018 7:55:45 GMT
As I understand it, modern dac chipsets 'do it all' on one package. Even the business part inside a 1541 was pin-head size, the rest being space to fit the pins around it, although I think it ran a bit warm as well from memory of when I had the tops off stuff like this when running.
The cheapo dac has a lower output than a typical CD player, so that could indicate no add-on output buffer. I'm not saying it's a world beate ror anything, but given a reasonable supply behind it, it's as good as many classic mid price players I reckon and once you forget it's there (so your eyes don't dictate the sound quality), i still feel it's pretty darned good! My power supply is a fairly expensive (by usual standards) black coloured fully potted 30VA toroid from RS Components with paralleled 12V secondary's into a similar regulated +DC supply much the same as that in the £40 Chinese supply oft recommended. It's in an abs project box (I can drill abs - just, but not metal)... This was originally a 9V supply for my ceramic cartridge preamp (high input impedance very basic fet buffer stage and I just trimmed it down via the adjustment to 5.1V or so.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 8:20:46 GMT
Hi Dave, I forgot modern dac chips can do much more than just digital to audio conversion. I am currently trying to trace and draw the circuit or what I can of it. If I find any ways of pimping it I will let you know If the supply is 5V in then there is either no regulator on the board (room for improvement) or then Q1 or P1 is a reg and the dac chip runs at less than 5V because of regulator dropout. There are only two 3 pin devices in there (Q1 and P1). Need to get the lamp and magnifying glass out.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 11:48:41 GMT
Pics of latest mods. Bypass of cdp anologue output stage. Lifted one leg of red wima 10uf, 100k resistor added to signal 0V and silver wiring to phono sockets
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 11:53:49 GMT
My Naim CD3.5 or whats left of it. Used to have 7 psu's, now only 5 since output stage no longer required. Big 200VA toroid if for digital only. Goes to pfm mosfet capacitance multiplier and then to main pcb and on to 5V chips, front display and transport. Little blue EI at front panel is for the pfm flea powered tentlabs clock. Other blue EI has 3 secondary windings - one for each of the dac's power supply pins. Two of them go through little diy capacitance multipliers and on to the LM317 (that I have obviously dicked about with). The third goes to a pfm flea without tentlabs clock. That goes directly to dac ps pin.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 13:00:31 GMT
My preamp (or lack of) Forget the circuitry on the green pcb none of it is used anymore. Signal wires from coupling cap and 100k to 0V go to the potential divider (the black rc55y resistors) and the 0V wiring to a copper bus bar I soldered across the 0V tabs of the crappy phono sockets (removed from a knackered Cambridge audio integrated). So a bus bar rather than a star earth. Four TIS cables go off to the 4 monoblocs. Simplicity Pic of the LM317 mods I did on the regs for two of the dac power supply pins. If output voltage required is 5V then remove one resistor and replace with two green LED's in series. Much lower noise and output impedance is the result. I love the glow of these led's, especially when its dark. The clock reg has one on too as has the flea reg for dac internal opamp. Super regs on the output stage had an led each as well but they are history now. Just gonna do this led trick with the rest of the 5V regs in this player but they are all filtering the supply for digital chips and the laser - I don't expect much difference if any but more green led's is cool I know none of this is rocket science but hey i'm kind of proud of the sound I have here.
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 13, 2018 14:09:12 GMT
Have you thought about a final layout? Probably early days yet, but I was wondering if it gonna be a 2 box job or a “no box” job? I’d guess the latter, albeit with the extra bits on a slab?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 14:37:58 GMT
Its all gonna be on one level of the "music centre" i am going to build out of wood and 6mm aluminum sheet for heatsink. I might even dispense with the 3.5's chasis and just use the front panel, swing out tray and motherboard.
If the silent switcher switch mode psu works out then i wont need any transformers, rectifiers caps or regulators. Just a couple of SS boards which are tiny ( fit in the palm of your hand).
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 13, 2018 16:10:09 GMT
Its all gonna be on one level of the "music centre" i am going to build out of wood and 6mm aluminum sheet for heatsink. I might even dispense with the 3.5's chasis and just use the front panel, swing out tray and motherboard. If the silent switcher switch mode psu works out then i wont need any transformers, rectifiers caps or regulators. Just a couple of SS boards which are tiny ( fit in the palm of your hand). Those cases fetch a tidy sum if you do dispense with it. I saw your pic of the £3.80 DAC on HFS. There’s a lot more inside than I’d expected. I can’t get my head around how anyone can make it for that price, let alone ship and retail it.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 17:26:46 GMT
Yeah there are a lot of resistors and caps. Only multi legged components are a regulator, the dac chip and a zener diode (which usually only have 2 legs so might have got that wrong).
I also dont know how they make it for that price. Bonkers.
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 13, 2018 18:34:40 GMT
If they can make that and sell for £3.80, Audioquest must be raking it in on their Dragonfly models.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 18:45:10 GMT
Got mine for €3.43 although i will probably need another by the time i have finished with it. Pity i dont know how to seperate out left and right channel data then i could use one per channel. If it could go in the 3.5 i would have a stab at wiring it in. It depends what clock frequency has to be used i think. But then this thing can get shoved on the end of all sorts of things. Need to read more (or get out more).
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 22:22:17 GMT
Posted a pic of my set up in the pfm system pics thread.
Lets see what those aesthetics/image over sound quality lovers think about it.
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 14, 2018 7:48:38 GMT
You’ll likely get the odd light-hearted comment, but hopefully nothing more. I hope they realise there’s no point in having it all neat and tidy whilst you’re experimenting. You’d probably be ten steps further back, or limiting yourself due to space constraints.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 14, 2018 8:55:39 GMT
Aye your approach to hifi is certainly different Stu....hats off to you though.
I hate wires (being a sparky may explain it) so my system has to be neat n tidy.
Your avatar creeps me oot, ever considered changing it for a nice tidy rack pic.........😁
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Post by Deleted on Oct 14, 2018 9:08:59 GMT
You’ll likely get the odd light-hearted comment, but hopefully nothing more. I hope they realise there’s no point in having it all neat and tidy whilst you’re experimenting. You’d probably be ten steps further back, or limiting yourself due to space constraints. Yeah its good to have the freedom to poke the iron or probe anywhere you like at a moments notice Had a few comments on pfm, just wait til they see my speakers
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 14, 2018 9:14:32 GMT
Aye your approach to hifi is certainly different Stu....hats off to you though. I hate wires (being a sparky may explain it) so my system has to be neat n tidy. Your avatar creeps me oot, ever considered changing it for a nice tidy rack pic.........😁 Always good to see pics of. “Nice tidy rack”
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Post by Deleted on Oct 14, 2018 9:36:30 GMT
Aye your approach to hifi is certainly different Stu....hats off to you though. I hate wires (being a sparky may explain it) so my system has to be neat n tidy. Your avatar creeps me oot, ever considered changing it for a nice tidy rack pic.........😁 I promise i will tidy it up one day, just for you Jammy. No wiring looms though.....that i a no no. I quite like my avatar, have a few similar. A nice rack would be good though
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Post by antonio on Oct 14, 2018 15:07:55 GMT
I thought when you had finished all your 'experiments', the system was to be enclosed, and I'm guessing all interconnects will be hidden away with only speaker cables on view. I did see comments made on pfm, they have obviously not been reading your diy posts on various forums. As for me I do read them, but have no idea what they mean.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 14, 2018 16:10:43 GMT
I thought when you had finished all your 'experiments', the system was to be enclosed, and I'm guessing all interconnects will be hidden away with only speaker cables on view. I did see comments made on pfm, they have obviously not been reading your diy posts on various forums. As for me I do read them, but have no idea what they mean. Yes Dave that is the plan but plans are constantly changing. I need to draw the line eventually otherwise it will never get "finished". Thing is my mind is always racing on to the next thing. What if i did this etc etc.Current thoughts are centring around not having any interconnects at all. This requires some srious thinking about getting all signal circuitry close together and the power supplies out of the way but not too far away. Think dac output and phono stage straight into source selector and volume control. And then straight into 6 channels of power amplification. Connections as short as poss without causing other problems like crosstalk. Speaker design is more or less sorted just need to build the final thing. LP is still a bit up in the air Phono stage sorted CDP nearly there Preamp section has been decided on Power amp choices are almost there. 6 channels using nva boards and separate psu's for front end and output stage. Just 4 channels to build Not much to be getting on with eh ? I dont think the people who frequent pfm audio room read the forums i post on. They dont even read the diy room on pfm.
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Post by antonio on Oct 14, 2018 16:55:10 GMT
You have to draw the line somewhere Stu, and just get it completed. I'm sure you've done a good job anyway. Pleased to hear the speakers are almost sorted, you've certainly tried everything in the book with them so far.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2018 20:12:29 GMT
Still loving my CD3.5 with out output stage A much more honest and natural sound with more detail to boot. Who would have thought it ? Still occasionally think about adding a cathode follower buffer but I am more than happy the way things are now driving a passive volume control. Valve output stage for a Naim CDS anyone ? See hereOne for Andrew - Sonneteer Alabaster tweaks here its the same guy ! Been looking into the digital side of the CD3.5 and cdp's in general. Laser is the thing to worry about. Found some info on cleaning the inner workings of it but wouldn't bother until it started playing up. Cleaning the sled runners and adding a smear of new plastic safe grease can cure some skipping problems. Phillips transports don't need any adjustments generally. The 3.5 uses a TDA1300 combined laser supply and RF amplifier (has its own LM317 reg in the swing out tray. This sends the signal down the flexible ribbon cable to the main board. Ribbon cable is not the best way to send these signals and if so they need a ground line between each. I need to check what Naim have done here. There are a few dc power lines coming down the ribbon cable to the LM317 reg and the swing out tray sensor which tells the player when the draw has been closed which in turn tells the laser to read the TOC. There are other lines as well from some of the other IC's on the main board. Everything is talking to each other. The power drivers on the motherboard are two TDA7073AT which control the sled, motor etc. These have a LM317 each but one of these regs is used to pre regulate the 5V LM317 in the swing out tray. So either Naim thought that clean power was essential for the laser or that the reg on the swing out tray would be dropping too much voltage and get too hot. Which shall it be ? There is a PIC ram chip loaded with Naim written software. This gets its own LM317 reg at 5V. SAA7376 is a combined servo processor and decoder. A huge 64 pin surface mount chip with connections running all over the shop. Gets three dedicated 5V lm317 regs and two or three reference feeds from one of the 9.375V regs which also supply one the TDA7073 power drivers. Not sure what the significance of this is.....yet. The i2s signal is transmitted from the SAA chip to the TDA1305 dac via 3 data lines. The dac is pretty self explanatory and has three separate power pins which I have mucked about with quite a bit . I got rid of the inverter chip and its reg many years ago when I put a pfm flea powered tentlabs clock and dedicated psu in, so wont mention that apart from to say it distributed the clock to the decoder and dac. Display takes a feed from one of the 9.375V regs which also power the power driver chips. Might shove a dedicated reg in for the display and get it off sharing with a power driver. Anologue stage has gone so I don't need to worry about that anymore People say don't bother messing with the digital side of the player as Naim have it pretty well sorted already and their are no improvements to be had. Being the inquisitive type I might have a bit of a play...…...well ya know how it is Scary stuff this digital malarkey .
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Post by Bigman80 on Nov 1, 2018 21:10:07 GMT
That’s a brave guy modding a CDS. An awesome sounding player from stock and also holds a lot of value. I can see what he’s saying about where the sonic restrictions are though.
Thanks for tehnSonneteer mods link too. I’m off to have a read. OST would probably be directly applicable to my Campion but I just couldn’t bring myself to mod it. I’d probs need another,
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