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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2018 7:08:07 GMT
In full diy brain mode at the moment although not so much actual doing being done.
I got so much stuff floating round my head i have to write it all down.
Thoughts turned to CD3.5 of late. Initially that was about trying a Silent switcher switch mode psu on it which is not what i expected. Then i started reading the pfm diy archives starting from page 666 back in 2003. Tony L does not prune the diy room so everything is still there. Some i have read before but lots of new stuff coming up.
The CD3.5 was quite a popular cdp on pfm back then and there are quite a few diy threads about it. One i had not seen before involved locating the I2S data stream between the decoder and dac which is helpful because it turns out that this could be used to plumb in a new dac if desired. The TDA1305 dac is said to be the weakest part of the 3.5. John Westlake used it in a design and did not have many good words about it.
The other thread i found involved someone who had the anologue output stage bypassed altogether and liked the result. The tda1305 has an internal opamp used for the IV stage and this has enough ooommph to drive the next component in the hifi chain (pre or power amp).
So, 6 opamps bypassed and a Sh#t load of caps and resistors. That would be great to get rid of although the output stage is a filter and bypassing it may put a load of nasty noise on the output but the guy who did it liked what he heard. If it worked out i could then dispose of the anologue stage psu which is a 500va twin secondary tx with associated retifiers, caps and a couple of alw super regulators.
The thought of throwing unwanted bits away is quite refreshing. It may sound worse however. Only one way to find out.
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Post by antonio on Oct 6, 2018 7:24:37 GMT
One job at a time.
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Post by dsjr on Oct 6, 2018 8:12:20 GMT
I 'think' many of the built in output stages in the dac chip 'only' have tuner/line level output, say a volt or less and the output stage appears to be the bit that takes the levels to 2V or so... The Naim would have their single rail output stage to give it the Naim 'sound' I think, so if you can bypass this, maybe the machine would sound better for it as I don't think CD players need to be so doctored these days? I'm still suspicious of smps to be honest, but current legislation (I think - 'citation needed') may well cut down on rf Sh#t going in or out. Just use loads of clip-on ferrites around it - my bodge and it 'works' for me I may have just 'upgraded' my geriatric Micro Seiki player. This one sounds best from its transformer coupled balanced outputs BUT, I think these invert the phase, so XLR pin 2 is actually negative rather then conventional positive. For me, a five minute job to check & change and the downstairs cack sounds more 'immediate' than it has done over the years on CD. I'm too bloody sentimental and don't want to chuck the speakers or sell the Harbeths right now... I also use an old rs-sourced mic cable from this player, it was the flexible mic cable with good size conductors, 'string' spacers and a double lap copper stranded screen, brown coloured (the nearest one is now a grey colour). Not for everyoine, but it likes 'this' player in musical terms.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2018 8:44:43 GMT
One job at a time. You know thats not the way i do things Dave but really should do.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2018 8:57:57 GMT
I 'think' many of the built in output stages in the dac chip 'only' have tuner/line level output, say a volt or less and the output stage appears to be the bit that takes the levels to 2V or so... The Naim would have their single rail output stage to give it the Naim 'sound' I think, so if you can bypass this, maybe the machine would sound better for it as I don't think CD players need to be so doctored these days? I'm still suspicious of smps to be honest, but current legislation (I think - 'citation needed') may well cut down on rf Sh#t going in or out. Just use loads of clip-on ferrites around it - my bodge and it 'works' for me I may have just 'upgraded' my geriatric Micro Seiki player. This one sounds best from its transformer coupled balanced outputs BUT, I think these invert the phase, so XLR pin 2 is actually negative rather then conventional positive. For me, a five minute job to check & change and the downstairs cack sounds more 'immediate' than it has done over the years on CD. I'm too bloody sentimental and don't want to chuck the speakers or sell the Harbeths right now... I also use an old rs-sourced mic cable from this player, it was the flexible mic cable with good size conductors, 'string' spacers and a double lap copper stranded screen, brown coloured (the nearest one is now a grey colour). Not for everyoine, but it likes 'this' player in musical terms. You may be right Dave. I might have to have a poke around with the digital multimeter set on ac and see if i can read some voltages at various places. The volume may be more similar to phono if the voltage out is reduced ? The output relay may need to be kept though. Might be some nasty noises when skipping tracks etc. I am all for getting rid of unneeded stuff. Musicality is more important to me now than "hifi" . Its fun messing about with stuff innit
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2018 9:21:54 GMT
The output from the dac will need a coupling cap for each channel as there is quite a lot of dc on the output. Don't want that going to the poweramps which have no input coupling caps of course.
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Post by dsjr on Oct 6, 2018 10:02:38 GMT
Nick G (Lurcher) would be the one to ask (or even Stan B), but I'd possibly suggest the higher the better (Nothing wrong to me in Nichicon FG electrolytics, although the audiophiles here would prefer the largest and most expensive Poly type possible - 'cos they look posher too and inspire audiophool confidence to go with the possibly slightly better sound!). Stan indicated with his original Caiman that the cap value depends on the load as seen by the amp, but this is where my lack of knowledge comes crashing in! My crown preamp has 25uF bi-polar caps (25V from memory) on the output for safety and the ton-up QED DAC (with 5534? stereo op amp) has 100uF caps at 16V or so - they're tiny whatever...
I do honestly believe *a bit* of maths/electronics knowledge can be a help rather than a hindrance, as it can save a hell of a lot of messing around and tail-chasing. I often look at something and wonder why it's done that way, but if I knew summat about it, I'd have a fair idea. Douglas Self let 'me' down severely on something he wrote which has been proven to be absolute incorrect in actual real-world practise and contributed to my having a fall out with Harbeth's Alan Shaw, who took the said article hook line and sinker... I trust Nick to accurately point you in the right direction once he knows the basic characteristics of the dac chip used... Colin W may also respond to a PM although I gather he despises digital and all it stands for (I don't know why, as it's usually totally transparent to stuff going on further back, rather than disguising it or painting over the cracks as vinyl usually does, but I digress...)
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2018 12:35:19 GMT
Cheers Dave,
Coupling caps I have in are wima films 10uf, 50V and very good they are too. They replaced the original naim 10uf blue tants (bloody things). Bass roll off becomes an issue the smaller you go in uf value.
I don't know how good the big Russian 3.3uf paper in oils (used in crossover) would be in this role.
Anyway, I re read the lampizator site again and there does not seem anything mysterious about snipping out the output stage of a cdp with a voltage out dac. Current output dacs like the 1541 are more complex but that does not affect me in this case.
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Post by dsjr on Oct 6, 2018 14:59:13 GMT
Can you double up to 20uF or higher? Instinct suggests that even 100uF may be better as any filtering and resultant phase shifts below 20hz may well be audible - If only I knew what I was talking about in this as regards a suitable value..
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2018 15:48:09 GMT
Further digging around reveals the output impedance of the dac may be higher than that of the opamp output buffer (10 ohms). That may or may not be a problem. Probably not.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2018 6:18:48 GMT
Output stage now bypassed 10uf coupling cap and 100k resistor to ground. Output relay bypassed too. No pops, clicks or unwanted noise when using any of the remote control functions which is a bonus. Volume out is definitely lower but not by much. Sound has changed somewhat, more detail especially midrange, less fatigue and an easier listen which is not what i expected. Some reservations about the highest frequencies being rolled off a little but i need much more listening before coming to any final conclusions. Maybe a buffer is needed or a valve or an output transformer It has bypassed 6 opamps and 10's of resistors and caps, not to mention an output relay and a big ass dual secondary psu with super regs.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 10, 2018 11:33:04 GMT
I would love to sit a stock model alongside yours and hear the difference. It’s a nice sounding player to start with, but I know from experience it’s down on dynamics and presence compared to bigger Naims.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2018 12:45:09 GMT
I would love to sit a stock model alongside yours and hear the difference. It’s a nice sounding player to start with, but I know from experience it’s down on dynamics and presence compared to bigger Naims. I could do that (and ought to) as I have a stock 3.5 in the cupboard which makes an appearance from time to time This modded one has phono sockets though to accept TIS which makes comparison with the same cable impossible. I have a din to phono cable somewhere but not TIS. Currently listening to Led Zep1 and I am hearing subtle detail that I thought never existed. I am trying to go through lots of different music before I commit to this new strategy. The 3.5 as stock is bold and lively. Some find it too much but the naim cdp that was said by some to strip enamel off teeth was the CDX. I have never heard one but always drooled over the top of the range models like Cdi, CD2, CDS2&3. More laters
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 10, 2018 13:42:19 GMT
I would love to sit a stock model alongside yours and hear the difference. It’s a nice sounding player to start with, but I know from experience it’s down on dynamics and presence compared to bigger Naims. I could do that (and ought to) as I have a stock 3.5 in the cupboard which makes an appearance from time to time This modded one has phono sockets though to accept TIS which makes comparison with the same cable impossible. I have a din to phono cable somewhere but not TIS. Currently listening to Led Zep1 and I am hearing subtle detail that I thought never existed. I am trying to go through lots of different music before I commit to this new strategy. The 3.5 as stock is bold and lively. Some find it too much but the naim cdp that was said by some to strip enamel off teeth was the CDX. I have never heard one but always drooled over the top of the range models like Cdi, CD2, CDS2&3. More laters I actually moved from 3.5 to CDX at one stage. It’s definiteky a more fierce player than other mains but I really liked it. It was way more dynamic and not had a huge sound. It was surprisingly beaten comfortable by a Copland CDA266 which was equally vivacious but superior at the top and better on spatial detail. That kinda put Naim players to bed for me, although I did buy a CD3 for a 2nd system. It was decent enough but I couldn’t see it competing with my Sonneteer, let alone now i have added the DAC. I still like and enjoy Naim players though. I’ve never heard one I didn’t like. CD5X was a bit boring for me but that’s the only gripe I can find.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2018 15:10:05 GMT
Did Copland CDA266 have any valves in it ? I have been reading the lampizator site about plonking a tube on the end of the dac. Never played with valves in fact I don't understand the circuits much at all except the psu. Will have to read up before I attempt that mod as larger voltages are involved. Well I must have liked the lively presentation to buy this 3.5 way back in 1997 when it was new (one careful owner from new ). Modifications have improved it beyond recognition to my ears, in a good way which may be bad for some one else. Different mods have changed different things. I would like to believe that this modified 3.5 really is much better than any of naim's offerings bar the 555 maybe, although I will never hear the other models to compare. Anyway it all depends on your ears and preferences. When you put lots of effort in to building and modifying your own stuff it really is hard to accept that something you just did is not as good. That's why I do prototypes first that don't take as much time to make as the finished article. Then not as much time wasted. Also use parts to hand until you know you are on to a winner. People really need to come clean on forums to say "no its not as good, back one step". Us diy nutters owe that to people who may be following in our footsteps. When you start out with little knowledge it can all be a bit daunting and a bit monkey see monkey do. I still need guidance from others and I would hate to pass on wrong info just because my ego wont let me. So everyone, bypass that cdp anologue stage now. Its the best mod ever Seriously I am still going through disc after disc hearing new things. Because of my fixed potential divider I cant change volume and coupled with the fact that I have lost nearly half a volt of output from the cdp then I am listening at a lower volume whilst I try and compare to what it was like before. Hardly ideal and sonic memory is short and fades quick. There is a lot of merit in removing as much un needed circuitry as you can. I only realised recently that I could get by without the output stage. Phase shift anybody ? Stu
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Post by dsjr on Oct 10, 2018 15:39:50 GMT
The 266 was pure solid state. Adding a valve adds loadsof extra unwanted distortion, but if you like fine details smoothed over then fine. Not that the 266 was edgy or grainy to start with I remember. A bit 'lean' possibly compared to the 288 or 289, but NEVER grainy or tinsel-toned.
Stu, the likes of a 5532 op-amp is totally transparent if well supplied*, so no need whatsoever to bypass one unless it's been used badly (my IC-150 preamps and QED ton-up Digit Opto are proof of this, as the QED totally transformed with a dedicated separate supply for the op amp alone). Naim are different in that you have that Quad 33 era single rail line stage and possibly hobbled filtering to get round, which gives their sources their 'Naim Sound.'
* Not scientific I know, but feeding a source straight into my Crown power amps (which have gain controls on them) and then inserting an active preamp in between showed me much. The Croft slugged everything (Glenn would have had it back for full updating - the Micro 25 is far better tonally), the AVI into 1m interconnects sounded 'pushy' and OTT (it was designed to drive long 10m or so interconnects) and once the chips in the IC-150 plus four caps were changed, this one was as near 'transparent' to the source as I need, even if it looks like an old cooker!
EFF!!!! he's just reviewed the SL2 preamp - I nearly bought one when 'upgrading' from the LK1 thirty years ago.... But nobody in the UK knew it, although had I bought one andkept it until now, I'd have got all my money back as they go for serious used dosh worldwide...
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2018 16:08:24 GMT
The 266 was pure solid state. Adding a valve adds loadsof extra unwanted distortion, but if you like fine details smoothed over then fine. Not that the 266 was edgy or grainy to start with I remember. A bit 'lean' possibly compared to the 288 or 289, but NEVER grainy or tinsel-toned.
Stu, the likes of a 5532 op-amp is totally transparent if well supplied*, so no need whatsoever to bypass one unless it's been used badly (my IC-150 preamps and QED ton-up Digit Opto are proof of this, as the QED totally transformed with a dedicated separate supply for the op amp alone). Naim are different in that you have that Quad 33 era single rail line stage and possibly hobbled filtering to get round, which gives their sources their 'Naim Sound.'
* Not scientific I know, but feeding a source straight into my Crown power amps (which have gain controls on them) and then inserting an active preamp in between showed me much. The Croft slugged everything (Glenn would have had it back for full updating - the Micro 25 is far better tonally), the AVI into 1m interconnects sounded 'pushy' and OTT (it was designed to drive long 10m or so interconnects) and once the chips in the IC-150 plus four caps were changed, this one was as near 'transparent' to the source as I need, even if it looks like an old cooker!
EFF!!!! he's just reviewed the SL2 preamp - I nearly bought one when 'upgrading' from the LK1 thirty years ago.... But nobody in the UK knew it, although had I bought one andkept it until now, I'd have got all my money back as they go for serious used dosh worldwide...
Hey Dave, I remember seeing the Copeland (Vickers hifi York) but it was out of my price range if I remember right. Tubes - I have no experience of them outside guitar amps. I read every where that they add distortion in audio and some that defend them to the death. What is one to do apart from trying them yourself ? Opamps in my CD3.5 are a mixture of the stock opa604 and some opa627 that I put in. They had their own twin secondary 500va transformer, Avondale TPR4 tracking pre regulator followed by some ALWSR super regs. That supply was as clean as I could get it and low impedance to boot. But there are still details covered over by the anologue stage. Single rail might have something to do with it. If I had the time I might try and convert the output stage to split rail supply but I am not sure I will ever find the time for that. Plus it sounds so good now what could be more simple and effective. All the chips in the digital section run on single rail only including the dac chip and mostly at 5V (a couple use 9V but not sure they have to). Its all fun
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Post by dsjr on Oct 10, 2018 16:28:03 GMT
For you maybe, but I'd blow everything up if I tried to over-modify stuff. A mint condition Crown 150 preamp belonging to a friend lost a channel after I replaced the old chips with new ones which measure better and sound it too at lower volumes. We didn't do a before-after so I can't guarantee it was my fault, but he won't let me near it to try to fix, so it'll remain an enigma (as one channel works it's not the supply or the relay, but maybe a dry joint or failed tant cap which all four ought to be replaced). Just try to make sure volume levels are similar when 'comparing' as small changes in just this make a HUGE difference to perceived quality. I can't explain it, but I've been fooled time after time, especially with 'that' fiver dac, as this has lower output than CD-normal. Get the levels matched and use a proper supply and there's barely a difference although it's not 'quite' as expansive as a 'proper' dac I think...
P.S. OPA604's have a 'sound' don't they? I also think that anything fancy here is far too wide a bandwidth for audio - you seriously don't need to go out to many MHz in audio I believe... I also believe (contrary to many audiophiles) that the infamous Sabre AV dacs are far to sophisticated and 'fast' for audio as they open up huge cans of worms at ultra high frequencies I don't believe most 'audio grade' designers can deal with. I'm probably totally wrong here, but it's BASS that CD needs to get right these days, not sharply etched highs - in my opinion...
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 10, 2018 16:55:57 GMT
The 266 was pure solid state. Adding a valve adds loadsof extra unwanted distortion, but if you like fine details smoothed over then fine. Not that the 266 was edgy or grainy to start with I remember. A bit 'lean' possibly compared to the 288 or 289, but NEVER grainy or tinsel-toned. Stu, the likes of a 5532 op-amp is totally transparent if well supplied*, so no need whatsoever to bypass one unless it's been used badly (my IC-150 preamps and QED ton-up Digit Opto are proof of this, as the QED totally transformed with a dedicated separate supply for the op amp alone). Naim are different in that you have that Quad 33 era single rail line stage and possibly hobbled filtering to get round, which gives their sources their 'Naim Sound.' * Not scientific I know, but feeding a source straight into my Crown power amps (which have gain controls on them) and then inserting an active preamp in between showed me much. The Croft slugged everything (Glenn would have had it back for full updating - the Micro 25 is far better tonally), the AVI into 1m interconnects sounded 'pushy' and OTT (it was designed to drive long 10m or so interconnects) and once the chips in the IC-150 plus four caps were changed, this one was as near 'transparent' to the source as I need, even if it looks like an old cooker! EFF!!!! he's just reviewed the SL2 preamp - I nearly bought one when 'upgrading' from the LK1 thirty years ago.... But nobody in the UK knew it, although had I bought one andkept it until now, I'd have got all my money back as they go for serious used dosh worldwide...
I was stunned by that Copland. I had owned a CSA 14 just a few months earlier and it was about as pedestrian an amp as you will ever hear. Don’t get me wrong, it was a sophisticated thing, and great with light jazz, but it did not know the meaning of boogie. The CD player on the other hand was more dynamoc than the CDX and still had all the sophistication. I’ve read a few people preferring it to the more expensive 288. I really should have kept it but I’m very happy with what I have now and it all matches. Is it as good or better than the Copland? I really have no idea, but I also have no intention of changing because it never fails to satisfy me. I don’t even look at other CD players.
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Post by dsjr on Oct 10, 2018 18:02:52 GMT
The 288 was a tune lover's delight, but maybe rather coloured with it, despite the lovely proper-VRDS mech it had. The 289 was more a 'bigger' 266. The only Copland amp I liked was the 515? with the 'call-lift' button on the front
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2018 18:33:19 GMT
Do you not hear anything... "radical" in the sound without the output stage?
When I was messing about with the output stage of a Technics SL-P1200 for Martin, I did try alternative op-amps, metal film resistors and Panasonic F Series capacitors. At one point, after replacing some of the capacitors, and having replaced the carbon resistors with standard metal films, there was an obvious improvement in terms of "torque". There was a much greater sense of sounds starting and stopping; much greater control. I stayed up until about 3AM listening.
Sadly, very sadly, the effect disappeared after a burn-in period of about 3 days.
Would a valve offer loads more distortion? I don't know. Some seem to have found merit in using a cheap valve buffer in their system. Perhaps a simple distorted circuit is preferable to a more complex less distorted circuit.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2018 18:35:01 GMT
For you maybe, but I'd blow everything up if I tried to over-modify stuff. A mint condition Crown 150 preamp belonging to a friend lost a channel after I replaced the old chips with new ones which measure better and sound it too at lower volumes. We didn't do a before-after so I can't guarantee it was my fault, but he won't let me near it to try to fix, so it'll remain an enigma (as one channel works it's not the supply or the relay, but maybe a dry joint or failed tant cap which all four ought to be replaced). Just try to make sure volume levels are similar when 'comparing' as small changes in just this make a HUGE difference to perceived quality. I can't explain it, but I've been fooled time after time, especially with 'that' fiver dac, as this has lower output than CD-normal. Get the levels matched and use a proper supply and there's barely a difference although it's not 'quite' as expansive as a 'proper' dac I think...
P.S. OPA604's have a 'sound' don't they? I also think that anything fancy here is far too wide a bandwidth for audio - you seriously don't need to go out to many MHz in audio I believe... I also believe (contrary to many audiophiles) that the infamous Sabre AV dacs are far to sophisticated and 'fast' for audio as they open up huge cans of worms at ultra high frequencies I don't believe most 'audio grade' designers can deal with. I'm probably totally wrong here, but it's BASS that CD needs to get right these days, not sharply etched highs - in my opinion...
Before switching on check all connections three times. Test psu's before connecting to circuits. Use 10r resistors in power lines on first fire up. Use a variac to slowly up the voltage. That are some of the things i do to prevent things blowing up. Also if i dont understand something i make sure i do understand it before going ahead. That takes research and learning combined with questions to the knowledgeable when needed. Opa604 are decent enough, yes. But not as good as the opamps in the cdx (opa27 ?) The opa627 which i have some of in the 3.5 wipe the floor with most others people have tried. And at 20 quid a pop they ought to do
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2018 19:04:30 GMT
This is good. The designer of PS Audio's preamp/power amp. Even he doesn't know what's going on with valves. (Second video. First PS Audio's Paul McGown. Love his vids.):
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Post by dsjr on Oct 10, 2018 19:57:55 GMT
The opa627 which i have some of in the 3.5 wipe the floor with most others people have tried. And at 20 quid a pop they ought to do I honestly thought the 627 and up had far too wide a bandwidth for much audio use unless one is very careful and in some audio situations, would oscillate/ring. Never tried one, so cannot reliably comment further. 5534's sound much the same as the input to me, don't *seem* to alter what's passing through them, so fine for me now. I can easily hear differences in recordings and productions and good music brings me to tears, so they can't be doing too much wrongly, at least for me
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2018 5:24:38 GMT
I cant argue with what you have said Dave (and wouldn't want to).
Just glad some one is interested. Most of my diy threads turn into a one poster blog.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 11, 2018 7:01:23 GMT
I cant argue with what you have said Dave (and wouldn't want to). Just glad some one is interested. Most of my diy threads turn into a one poster blog. I still have bookmarks to yor CD3.5 epic on PFM. Had me hooked although I lacked the tech knowledge to open my mouth and post back.
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Post by dsjr on Oct 11, 2018 8:18:28 GMT
Never stopped me - cough.......
My thing - and I think Stu's too? is that when you change parts, what is actually happening? is stability improving, is distortion genuinely reduced and also, and important for 'digital' I think, what the hell's going on at much higher frequencies where the dacs are working?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2018 15:56:47 GMT
I cant argue with what you have said Dave (and wouldn't want to). Just glad some one is interested. Most of my diy threads turn into a one poster blog. I still have bookmarks to yor CD3.5 epic on PFM. Had me hooked although I lacked the tech knowledge to open my mouth and post back. Its still going. I needed a bit of advice and martin Clark (acoustica author) came to the rescue, yet again. He is seriously clever and very generous. Sent me some surface mount caps once for a pfm flea (which he designed). Just say hello, don't need to post owt
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2018 16:14:38 GMT
Never stopped me - cough....... My thing - and I think Stu's too? is that when you change parts, what is actually happening? is stability improving, is distortion genuinely reduced and also, and important for 'digital' I think, what the hell's going on at much higher frequencies where the dacs are working? Dave, I do think about what is happening although without test equipment I only have a DMM, a hunch and my ears to go on. RD would say that is all you need I am so enjoying listening to the 3.5 without output stage. Well, it still has a 1st order filter (don't mention that word) on the dac output which is a 680pf cap between two of the pins. The data sheet suggests 1n cap but Naim must have done that for a reason. Maybe without the rest of the output stage I should try 1n as per the data sheet. It also says that this 1st order filter is all that is required. There is no doubt the presentation has changed and all for the good as far as I can tell so far. Or maybe I am biased ? The sound has tightened up considerably. The stock player was a bit to fatiguing for long term listening. I managed to get rid of some of that but it still bugged me - vocal sibilance is something I am particularly sensitive to. This mod seems to have cured it once and for all. Opamps and regulators don't always play nicely together and you can get all sorts of ringing even oscillation. Getting rid of the opamps, regulators and psu's really has made a big difference. I would recommend it to anyone with a 3.5. There is a view that getting rid of the output stage can increase the output impedance - I suppose it depends on the output impedance of the dac. Without a buffer o lower the output impedance the view of many is that you will run in to problems with passive preamps. Not so here. RD does bang on about impedance matching being a load of bollocks and that having enough voltage or current to bash the door open is what counts. I am leaning towards that view myself although I don't have the technical understanding of it. Chemical Brothers are banging at the moment. Loving it.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Oct 11, 2018 17:26:58 GMT
The stuff you’ve soldered is beyond my comprehension.let alone capability. How people can solder onto chip legs etc just staggers me. I think I do be much better with a cordless iron, but even still, I don’t have that dexterity.
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