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Post by rexton on Nov 15, 2022 19:32:43 GMT
Help needed! I intend to make a new plinth for my Garrard 301 from Permali which has equal damping properties to Panzerholz but at markedly less cost and a darn site easier to source. I've worked a little bit with Panzerholz when I made some SME tonearm spacers and I remember it being bloody difficult to machine/cut. So, I need some help/tips with respects to cutting/prepping the Permali. Can anyone recommend a decent jigsaw blade? Secondly, can anyone recommend a decent sanding belt? Sorry if these appear a bit childish question but I'm only a novice at this wood working lark!
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 15, 2022 19:37:46 GMT
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 15, 2022 19:42:10 GMT
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Post by rexton on Nov 15, 2022 19:53:36 GMT
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Post by pete on Nov 15, 2022 19:56:14 GMT
That looks fantastic Arke, beautiful grain. Bet it is surprisingly heavy!
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Nov 15, 2022 19:59:24 GMT
That's not the whole story, but I haven't got all the links etc saved. Permali is an excellent choice Vs probably anything else out there. Availability of Panzer is now almost nil in the UK, so Permali really is the only option. It's also not cheap, but....what is?
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 15, 2022 20:00:25 GMT
I may defer to Oli or Phonomac on the relative damping properties. I believe Panzerholz is better at damping when considered over a range of frequencies. Granted, Permali may be better at specific frequencies.
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 15, 2022 20:03:48 GMT
That looks fantastic Arke, beautiful grain. Bet it is surprisingly heavy! It is very dense and hard. Not that heavy when the motor hole has been removed - it's a big hole! I love the grain and depth of colour - it is very unique.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Nov 15, 2022 20:10:30 GMT
I may defer to Oli or Phonomac on the relative damping properties. I believe Panzerholz is better at damping when considered over a range of frequencies. Granted, Permali may be better at specific frequencies. I can't remember the ratio exactly, but Panzer is like twice as good as the next best (Birch Ply) but Permali is somewhere in the middle, but it's closer to Panzer than Birch Ply....those three are out in their own Vs the other materials. Other than that, phonomac would have to chip in.
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Post by rexton on Nov 15, 2022 20:28:17 GMT
I may have a source for Panzerholz. So, I have a good recommendation for a table saw, which I have, I'll still need to use something like a jigsaw to cut the inside of the plinth, any ideas for blades?
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Nov 15, 2022 20:29:01 GMT
I may have a source for Panzerholz. So, I have a good recommendation for a table saw, which I have, I'll still need to use something like a jigsaw to cut the inside of the plinth, any ideas for blades? Oooooh, where from? Those guys in PFM?
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 15, 2022 20:32:14 GMT
I'm not convinced a jigsaw will 'cut it' (sorry, couldn't resist!).
I used a 1/2" plunge router with a 1/2" router bit. I made a jig and used that to cut an exact hole. Go steady and use a very good quality router bit. Do about 2mm depth per pass.
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Post by pete on Nov 15, 2022 20:37:15 GMT
That looks fantastic Arke, beautiful grain. Bet it is surprisingly heavy! It is very dense and hard. Not that heavy when the motor hole has been removed - it's a big hole! I love the grain and depth of colour - it is very unique. What happens to the bit cut from the motor hole?
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Post by rexton on Nov 15, 2022 20:44:16 GMT
The idea is to cut 3 or 4 smaller sheets rectangular sheets to a depth of 90mm from a much larger 1m x 4m sheet, glue them all together so the Garrard's motor is hidden from site, yes I appreciate I won't get any additional benefit from such a thick plinth, it's purely for aesthetics. The plinth will house 2x 12" arms, and possibly a single 9", so 3 tonearm altogether. I'm not sure about veneer, maybe just sand down and polish up the natural grain of the permali. I'll be cutting the sheet down initially with a table saw.
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 15, 2022 20:49:08 GMT
It is very dense and hard. Not that heavy when the motor hole has been removed - it's a big hole! I love the grain and depth of colour - it is very unique. What happens to the bit cut from the motor hole? Not sure yet. It's looking lonely on the floor! Panzer would make a great speaker baffle, but the offcut is pretty small.
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 15, 2022 20:54:55 GMT
The idea is to cut 3 or 4 smaller sheets rectangular sheets to a depth of 90mm from a much larger 1m x 4m sheet, glue them all together so the Garrard's motor is hidden from site, yes I appreciate I won't get any additional benefit from such a thick plinth, it's purely for aesthetics. The plinth will house 2x 12" arms, and possibly a single 9", so 3 tonearm altogether. I'm not sure about veneer, maybe just sand down and polish up the natural grain of the permali. I'll be cutting the sheet down initially with a table saw. Wow, that is a fair bit of material and lots of work - it will look stunning when finished. To save time and cost, you could cut the top layer as a full plith and use additional pieces (in a mitred picture frame) to create the depth.
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Post by pete on Nov 15, 2022 20:57:33 GMT
What happens to the bit cut from the motor hole? Not sure yet. It's looking lonely on the floor! Panzer would make a great speaker baffle, but the offcut is pretty small. Yeah, maybe a couple of arm boards or maybe some feet that could be used for damping. I don’t know enough about it. Must be a good use for it. It is special stuff. Tiny pair of speaker baffles though.
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 15, 2022 21:01:20 GMT
Not sure yet. It's looking lonely on the floor! Panzer would make a great speaker baffle, but the offcut is pretty small. Yeah, maybe a couple of arm boards or maybe some feet that could be used for damping. I don’t know enough about it. Must be a good use for it. It is special stuff. Tiny pair of speaker baffles though. Some Panzer cones may be nice, but a lathe would be useful.... Or maybe a heavy duty cat-flap!
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Post by karma67 on Nov 16, 2022 17:12:29 GMT
Help needed! I intend to make a new plinth for my Garrard 301 from Permali which has equal damping properties to Panzerholz but at markedly less cost and a darn site easier to source. I've worked a little bit with Panzerholz when I made some SME tonearm spacers and I remember it being bloody difficult to machine/cut. So, I need some help/tips with respects to cutting/prepping the Permali. Can anyone recommend a decent jigsaw blade? Secondly, can anyone recommend a decent sanding belt? Sorry if these appear a bit childish question but I'm only a novice at this wood working lark!
answered on another forum andy.
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Post by rexton on Nov 16, 2022 19:07:05 GMT
Help needed! I intend to make a new plinth for my Garrard 301 from Permali which has equal damping properties to Panzerholz but at markedly less cost and a darn site easier to source. I've worked a little bit with Panzerholz when I made some SME tonearm spacers and I remember it being bloody difficult to machine/cut. So, I need some help/tips with respects to cutting/prepping the Permali. Can anyone recommend a decent jigsaw blade? Secondly, can anyone recommend a decent sanding belt? Sorry if these appear a bit childish question but I'm only a novice at this wood working lark!
answered on another forum andy. Gotcha! Many thanks for your help.
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bigbird
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Post by bigbird on Nov 17, 2022 5:48:54 GMT
I’ve just finished a Permali plinth for my SP10 mk2 . Panzer was proving to be almost impossible to find here in Oz and the one sheet I did find that was big enough was $1500 so I went with what is considered to be the next best thing, Permali. I did 3 20mm pieces epoxied together to make a nice heavy 60mm slab . Total cost was just over $450 (about 200 odd quid) so significantly cheaper than panzer . It definitely looks ,smells and feels slightly different to panzer . It’s Redder ,a bit shinier and more resinous looking(if that’s the right term) , panzer looks more natural like wood does and has more thinner layers in it (see picture of armboards for comparison). There’s not much in it weight wise holding up similar sized pieces . I took it over to a friends house to use his fancy drilling machine to get my arm base holes bang on and he did some basic tests while I was there . He found it to be more effective than his own resin/bentonite plinth for killing resonance off quickly so he’s now made himself one from Permali . I can’t say I had any real issues working the material . It cuts , plains , sands and drills fairly easily with my makita tools with standard bits on them , cutting little by little . The only thing I would say is to make sure that you drill and tap any holes for bolts and fixings properly as I had one bolt on the armboard that was a right barsteward to get out even though I’d tapped the bloody things . I mustn’t have gone quite deep enough and got the bolt properly lodged. I sorted it in the end but it put up a real fight I glued on an aluminum top plate and brushed it to match the SP10 best I could , added the mighty Track Audio isolation feet and Angus’s Mk8SE arm . The end result is very special 🤯🤯🤯 This thing is on another level to my CTC 301 in a massive 20 odd kilo Panzerholz plinth,track feet and Reed arm. I’m getting crazy resolution and detail, In fact the best I’ve ever had here and the best I’ve ever heard in a non show setting . How much is down to the plinth I couldn’t quantify but based on what I’m hearing it’s a big thumbs up from me for Permali . It’s much better than the MDF aluminum plinth that it came in as the image is sharper , lines are cleaner and soundstage is more spacious so it’s clearly having some sort of positive effect and working harmoniously with the other parts , and best of all it’s not too expensive to try for yourself .
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Post by stevew on Nov 17, 2022 6:20:59 GMT
Love the top plate. Just in terms of aesthetics it finishes it all off.
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bigbird
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Post by bigbird on Nov 17, 2022 6:27:23 GMT
Love the top plate. Just in terms of aesthetics it finishes it all off. Thanks mate , yeah I agree . I gives it more of that 80s Japanese feel having the top plate on there
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Arke
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Post by Arke on Nov 17, 2022 7:14:14 GMT
Looks beautiful bigbird! Great job. Love the extra depth too.
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Post by robbiegong on Nov 17, 2022 7:36:45 GMT
Sweet - Really really like that SP10 bigbird - lovely job !
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bigbird
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Post by bigbird on Nov 17, 2022 7:41:37 GMT
Looks beautiful bigbird! Great job. Love the extra depth too. Cheers mate , it’s certainly not finished to the level of your Etkas , but it’s good enough for an old plasterer like me .
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bigbird
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Post by bigbird on Nov 17, 2022 7:43:49 GMT
Sweet - Really really like that SP10 bigbird - lovely job ! Nice one Rob , It’s only taken 6 months to get it over the line . Don’t know how I coped . I’ve been spinning none stop
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Post by antonio on Nov 17, 2022 7:48:30 GMT
Plasterer - As Mr Enfield would say "Splish, Spash, Splosh, - loadsa money"
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Post by robbiegong on Nov 17, 2022 8:22:48 GMT
Sweet - Really really like that SP10 bigbird - lovely job ! Nice one Rob , It’s only taken 6 months to get it over the line . Don’t know how I coped . I’ve been spinning none stop Reminds me of my own a lot 'cept for the top plate. How you finding the Ti ?
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optical
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Post by optical on Nov 17, 2022 8:49:29 GMT
Love the top plate. Just in terms of aesthetics it finishes it all off. Yeah really really classy looking, superb stuff. Now if only you could 'raise' the wood 'square' area supporting the arm to fit flush with the top plate or lower the top platter around the wooden 'square'.... I'm not saying I could or even know if it's possible but that would be ultimate level....
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