Thiel CS 2.2 Crossover recap, with pictures.

Pleased you're 'getting there' Alan.

Best of luck with both Alan!

Hope everything goes well tomorrow.

Gary

I am glad to say the cataract operation went very well, my eye is still a little tender if I press it.
('Don't press it then stupid' I hear you all saying  )

The advice was to avoid any dusty environments or bending over for a week as that is the most likely period to get an infection.
So now I can progress I have removed the second pair of crossovers, you can see the old and new side by side.





The inside of the cabinets are extensively braced, very nice to see.





I have the new cable to rewire the drivers so I shall install the new crossovers in the cab just opened with the one working tweeter.
The mid driver is in a sealed internal enclosure with the wires glued into an access hole. Pulling them out required the use of my largest pliers:

One now completed, apart from the replacement tweeter diaphragm/coil and new binding posts, waiting for both.

It's working but too difficult to detect any improvement yet as I'm using one Thiel and one ESL57 

Second pair of crossover boards completed.
Will fit and rewire the second speaker tomorrow once the adhesive has set.

Not received the parts yet. One tweeter is working but I think it is partly sha&&ed.

Very pleased your cataract op went well and any soreness is now easing. Good luck with the new tweeter parts, will certainly be good if you can get the Theils's sounding as good or even better than before.

Second cabinet re-assembled.
Drilling out the access hole to the mid enclosure:




Fitting the OCC wire:




Tweerer and mid leads, kitchen clip to stop the wire disappearing into the cab which happened on the first one:




Input and woofer cables:

Unless you're having Tannoys made....

We'll all be deaf before they turn up 🤣

yeah I really should chase them up.

must be at least. Although the drivers have gone up in value in the meantime so it's not all bad news.

More than happy with what I have, that's why I've not chased them up in ages.

Gordon Bennett why do I attempt to do these things   

I have the replacement diaphragms and ferrofluid so removed the old diaphragm from the faulty tweeter.
Turns out although the diameter of the new coil is correct the former it is wound on is not as long as the old one, bugger.

Ferrofluid:




Removing the old ferrofluid is challenging, one method suggested folded masking tape with the sticky side outwards:




Another suggestion was using strips of blotting paper, you try getting blotting paper from a shop these days, no chance.
Fortunately kitchen roll does a good job, held with aluminium tweezers:




Inserting the new ferrofluid was the easiest part of the whole process, you don't even have to push the plunger on the syringe because the magnetic field just pulls it into the gap.

Now here's the tricky bit, I had the brainwave of 'reversing' the mounting of the new diaphragm on the plastic carry piece, so that the coil would actually go into the magnetic gap.
This is after releasing the connection wires:




Next is the really fraught step of lifting the edge of the diaphragm where it is glued down.
Talk about difficult, it's also very easy to squeeze the coil former so it ends up non circular, so that has to be rectified before fitting.

Diaphragm removed:




After gluing to the reverse of the carrier the coil did indeed go into the gap but just a little too much, so a couple of washers were fitted over the location pips.
Problem now arisen is an air gap to the inside pressure of the speaker enclosure, so that was sealed with some silicone glue/sealant.

Adjusting the position of the coil in the gap is precision personified, I have used the LCR meter to shown the largest impedance then left it for the glue to harden overnight.




Lets just hope it's right in the morning then the front cover can be attached and sealed.