Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 17, 2019 20:15:24 GMT
Agreed, they look horrid too, in 99% of cases.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 17, 2019 20:17:07 GMT
Another thing I’m unlikely to buy.........
Anything new, Why would you? There’s a 50% loss when you sell. Far better to let someone else take that loss and make your money go twice as far, or more,
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 17, 2019 20:19:56 GMT
Whilst I’m at it......expensive mains cables. For one I’m not convinced they make any difference. For two, I can DIY something better made than most expensive cables for under a tenner.
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Post by macca on Jan 17, 2019 20:23:17 GMT
Sometimes there's still no option but to buy new I suppose. I wouldn't buy a used MC cartridge - not unless I could hear it before I paid for it. Not that I'd buy another MC cartridge. Add that to my list of things I wouldn't buy.
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Post by nonuffin on Jan 17, 2019 20:34:52 GMT
Most people are grossly underwhelmed when I say I am currently using a pair of Quadral Chromium Style 6 floorstanders. Wouldn't swap them for anything else no matter what their cost is and believe me I've reviewed a fair few and owned a good few pairs over the years. I am playing with some Russell K 150's at the moment and at nearly 3 times the price of the Quadrals there really is no contest. Yes the Quadrals are rear ported, but the cabinets are very well made and the reflex port is not just a hole in the woodwork.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2019 20:40:04 GMT
Yes i would imagine they are indeed grossly underwhelmed.........!!! Cause like me they probably aint got a fukin clue wot the fuk yer gibbering on abart.... FFS.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 18, 2019 0:20:44 GMT
I think they are German. AV and Hi-Fi speakers
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 18, 2019 0:26:12 GMT
My list is growing! Anything with a captive mains lead.
Has to be the stupidest, most frustrating way to make kit. It’s so much easier to plug and unplug when it doesn’t come with the electrical version of a ball and chain attached. Loads of kit with captive leads has had damage to the top of the casework. Unplugging to dust is a PITA with captive leads.
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Post by antonio on Jan 18, 2019 6:33:20 GMT
^^^^^^^^ You've said this before Westie. How many pieces of equipment are you having to move when dusting?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 8:15:46 GMT
A real magnet
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 18, 2019 8:24:15 GMT
Nowadays it’s just three. But I do move them regularly. Dust gathers in 2-3 days. I also move the mains block and vacuum the space regularly. Given the dubious nature of mains cable impact on sonics, I can only conclude it’s a cost cutting exercise. I accept it’s a requirement fir Class II but they aren’t many of those around. For me, it’s the same as the headshell argument, if you can buy something great that has a detachable headshell/mains lead, then why tolerate something that doesn’t?
I’d say the same applies to bouncy decks too, except I think they are actually inferior sonically in most cases, They still create loads of user hassles in many cases, simply because the designer wasn’t clever enough to find a user-friendly solution.
Seeing as I’m on a roll, I’d be inclined to have a pop at the Naim Aro too. An arm without a lift/lower as standard?Utter stupidity, the risk to your expensive cartridge and your vinyl is a red line that should never have been crossed.
The irony is that so many of these things are labelled “no compromise” or “minimalist”. Well for starters, the compromises are usually massive. They simply fall on the user because the designer wasn’t able to make a decent sounding and useable product without passing on his unresolved problems.
As for “minimalist”, it’s so often been a term for the lack of investment needed to manufacture properly. Many simple products have been borne of necessity rather than design. Just look at the belt drives made by so many uk makers. They couldnt produce a 1210 without a few million investment, so they claimed that a few springs, a bit of chipboard and a rubber band is superior,
For me, the whole ethos of minimalism sprang from a lack of the ability to design and the capacity to manufacture. It’s BS marketing because it tried to sell deficiencies as advantages. It relies on the ego of the buyer to achieve success. You aren’t a REAL Hi-Fi enthusiast if you don’t make massive compromises to accommodate your hifi.
It all comes back to the same thing for me: When you hear and use kit that sounds wonderful and works perfectly without you having to bend over backwards, why bother with anything that doesn’t? Limited design by limited designers IMO.
If bending to minimalism floats your boat, then I’m happy for you, Some people practise self-flagellation and I’m happy for them too, as long as they don’t want me to join in.
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Post by macca on Jan 18, 2019 8:40:39 GMT
Sometimes it's the opposite - Cambridge CD1, the first 'two box' cd player. Everyone copied the concept afterwards but the real reason it was in two boxes was because he couldn't fit all the bits in one standard case.
Making a positive out of a negative is what sales and marketing is all about though.
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Post by nonuffin on Jan 18, 2019 10:05:47 GMT
My list is growing! Anything with a captive mains lead. Has to be the stupidest, most frustrating way to make kit. It’s so much easier to plug and unplug when it doesn’t come with the electrical version of a ball and chain attached. Loads of kit with captive leads has had damage to the top of the casework. Unplugging to dust is a PITA with captive leads. A captive mains lead is indeed a pain in thw arse, not from a connection point of view for me, but for the fact that the wire is usually such crap quality.
Worse than that in my view is the manufacturers who put the mains switch on the rear panel which truly pisses me off. I don't enjoy contorting myself around and through my rack just to power up and down my system each time I want to use it
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 11:09:50 GMT
My vintage EL34 valve monoblocks have captive mains leads and rear switches. Can't say it really bothers me and it sure as hell doesn't stop them sounding excellent.
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Post by macca on Jan 18, 2019 11:31:06 GMT
I've never understood the point of putting the power switch on the rear. Even if they pointlessly intend you to leave the thing powered up 24/7 exactly what advantage is conferred by having the switch on the back instead of the front?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 15:01:03 GMT
My vintage EL34 valve monoblocks have captive mains leads and rear switches. Can't say it really bothers me and it sure as hell doesn't stop them sounding excellent. I luv ya Wall........ There is simply and categorically no finer sounding valve (Toob if yer a fukin Yank) than the humble EL34.
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 18, 2019 17:04:40 GMT
I've never understood the point of putting the power switch on the rear. Even if they pointlessly intend you to leave the thing powered up 24/7 exactly what advantage is conferred by having the switch on the back instead of the front? This doesn’t bother me tbh. Especially if it’s top left or top right corner. In some amps it improves the sleek look too. Not sure I want to put up with amps that go bang when you switch them on iot off tho. Bigger older MFamps see a real ass pain on that front
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 17:43:57 GMT
Some actually put a neon light on the rear mounted switch...........OBVIOUSLY. ?
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 18, 2019 17:55:00 GMT
Another thing I wouldn’t buy is kit that needs to be left on to sound decent. I’m not talking about manufacturers recommendations. I’m happy to make up my own mind, but if it takes more than about 20 mins to sing, it’s not for me. I don’t want to leave stuff on as I believe the damage from heat outweighs switch on and off stresses. I also don’t want to add to risks of something going tits up when I’m not there.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 18:29:23 GMT
Valves do, by their nature need a certain amount of time to warm up before coming on song.
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 18, 2019 19:01:33 GMT
Valves do, by their nature need a certain amount of time to warm up before coming on song. True, but once there’s heat, they are uauslly pretty good, You also don’t have that nonsense about leaving them on, 24/7.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 19:23:00 GMT
Do not care about it sounding a bit thin at first my valve amps need about two songs to come up to steam. I have run valve equipment for years and have never had a single issue with any of them. People are under the impression that because it is solid state it will never pack in that is nonsense.
Modern valve amps are dog reliable if properly made they can take more abuse than a transistor amp. Perhaps abuse is the wrong word. Solid State touch +- on the speaker wire - poof. unplug and plug in an interconnect on a solid state with out at least turning the volume down and you stand the risk - poof. A difficult Pig like a Tannoy Royal Kingdom which despite the sensitive rating has an impedance curve that drops bellow 2 ohms. My mates ones sent a 500w Krell up in smoke. Never did that to any valve amp he used.
Those vintage type valve amps I cannot stand, two slow, muddy, woolly unreliable gutless fire hazards.
I run fans on my valve amps sure the fans make a noise but at the volumes I like, don't care. The noise makes no difference to me, my amps have never packed up, and the valves are yet to be replaced Gets up in the mid 30s in summer here for months on end and my man cave is a real sweat box.
Did a stupid thing once plugged the positive into the 4 ohm positive tap and the negative into the positive 8 ohm tap thing sounded off could not figure it out till dummy saw what he had done. Amp played perfectly for about a year after that then a cap started buzzing when it charged up. so now I turn it on for 30 seconds then off for twenty then on again noise gone, still plays perfectly been like that for at least two years. Was it me who buggered it, or is it just the cap. I bought them second hand 10 years ago and they still have the same valves in them as when I got them. Go figure. Do have new ones in a box in the cupboard. Changed them over once, no difference at all.
People talk about the valve sound, cant stand it, good modern Valve amps will give everything a solid state will give including good strong tight bass and for my ear at least far better mid range. Not a great solid state fan always sound grainy and a tad sharp to me there are exceptions. A good valve pre and a solid state power, that I can live with they sound good to me.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 19:30:40 GMT
+1
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 18, 2019 19:34:53 GMT
I reckon 20 mins warm up is no inconvenience, it’s rare that I want to listen at zero notice and I usually grab a coffee and a snack before listening, that give some it enough time.
Another thing I might not buy again.......a turntable. I can’t be arsed with the tweaky nature, the need for a separate phono stage, the danger of damaging a cartridge etc. Jap DDs are more user friendly but don’t float my boat aesthetically. My vinyl days might be over
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 19:42:07 GMT
That would be a shame Westie. 😥
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Post by macca on Jan 18, 2019 19:42:31 GMT
Agree valve amps are very robust if they are built properly (don't buy cheap one). Lots of military applications for valves too and they have to withstand anything.
Nothing needs to be switched on all the time to sound good. It's pure imagination. Although I would say the valve amps I've had do seem to get better the longer they are on it's just an impression, it doesn't mean it is actually happening. 10 minutes from cold they should be as good as they are going to get.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 23:15:10 GMT
I reckon 20 mins warm up is no inconvenience, it’s rare that I want to listen at zero notice and I usually grab a coffee and a snack before listening, that give some it enough time. Another thing I might not buy again.......a turntable. I can’t be arsed with the tweaky nature, the need for a separate phono stage, the danger of damaging a cartridge etc. Jap DDs are more user friendly but don’t float my boat aesthetically. My vinyl days might be over Turntables cartridges ?? a rabbit hole I have avoided, quite happy with my Rega Planar 2 with an Ortho blue, a new belt every now and then. Most of my records are old, some are over 50 years old. I refuse to pay silly money for new remastered vinyl it is a con imo. Got a 2 DD's a Technics Quartz and an Akai both not high end and a Pioneer pl 15. All play music well enough to make me smile. I have listened to a lot of decks that cost the earth, and quite honestly a good CDP gives them all a run for their money at a fraction of the cost. I never gave up on vinyl simply because of all the music I have on LP. This question always arises in my mind; the original master tapes are long gone, were never kept, or have dropsy or mold, they are with very few exceptions useless.. So what are they mastering from, an old LP or a CD those are the only options, copy of a copy rather go back to compact cassettes if you get my drift. I have proved this very point, I have an original box set of The Nat King Cole Story in very good nick the lp's at least are, the box is tatty. A friend buys a re issue and it just don't sound half as good as my originals. I do not know if any of you have tried using an integrated amp with a phono stage hooked up as a separate stage using the tape loop. Works very well, for most of those Jap amps of the past have very good phono stages, my budget Technics SUZ 15 has seen off many a pricey phono stage used in this manner. Same goes using them for Headphones.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jan 19, 2019 4:49:28 GMT
I’ve tried that and I am with you. The money charged for separate phono stages is often a rip off afaic. In many cases it’s just the sort of thing you’d find inside an integrated amp anyway. Stuff it in a separate tin or placcy box and throw a wall wart in for good measure. Now it’s a few hundred quid for something you expected to be included in the price.
DSJR and I had this very conversation. I reckoned the best value phono stage was in the lk1 preamp. If you want an integrated amp with a great stage built in, I’d say buy a Claymore. It’s a great integrated with no fuss, no faff. The best headphone stage on any integrated I’ve had and plenty of power.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2019 9:33:57 GMT
Claymore that is a new one to me, we never did get a lot of that sort of equipment here. Never even seen one come up for sale in this country. lots of the more well known british stuff like Quad and such. A lot more of the rarer American stuff around. Occasionally some rare Jap high end stuff comes up for sale, hell their stuff was so better made and more reliable compared to others.
If any of this sort of kit does ever come up it has usually been butchered by some monkey or other.
A friend recently came across some Exposure V series power amps and pre amps in a a pretty neglected state, been butchered and kept for years in a damp garage. He is rebuilding them. He is from Serbia and is great hunter, and collector of all sorts of esoteric equipment.
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