|
|
Post by macca on May 13, 2024 6:10:02 GMT
My pre-amp stays on standby only because it has to be switched off at the wall
Uses 15 watts an hour in standby which is a bit excessive. But it is from the 1980s.
|
|
|
|
Post by brucew268 on May 13, 2024 7:25:49 GMT
My Muse DAC (1996 R2R) doesn't sound right until 48 hours in. My Calyx DAC (ESS chip) and the 6000CDT transport sound good at the start but get better after 4-24 hours.
|
|
|
|
Post by brucew268 on Jun 11, 2024 13:44:36 GMT
Two things that are doing my head in: 1. Regardless of which bridge rectifier or main caps I use in this transport's power supply, the image layering and midrange space and openness are significantly better when a rubber eraser is banded to the right channel of the DAC's analog output cable, just so. No other configuration accomplishes this: neat cables, eraser on both cables, damping on the CD transport case or PCB, isolation under the transport or DAC, etc.
2. Changing the stock DECON PSU capacitors to Panasonic FR, creates a cloudy male vocal (Jimmy Webb) regardless of what else I do, like he has a cold. I thought that FR was basically interchangeable with FM and would sound the same, which at least one modshop prefers for this application.
|
|
Bigman80
Grandmaster
The HiFi Bear/Audioaddicts/Bigbottle Owner
Posts: 16,430
|
Post by Bigman80 on Jun 11, 2024 14:48:22 GMT
Two things that are doing my head in: 1. Regardless of which bridge rectifier or main caps I use in this transport's power supply, the image layering and midrange space and openness are significantly better when a rubber eraser is banded to the right channel of the DAC's analog output cable, just so. No other damping efforts on the CD transport (case or PCB) or DAC accomplish this.
2. Changing the stock DECON PSU capacitors to Panasonic FR, creates a cloudy male vocal (Jimmy Webb) regardless of what else I do, like he has a cold. I thought that FR was basically interchangeable with FM and would sound the same, which at least one modshop prefers for this application.
FM are better caps than FR. I use FM wherever possible. |
|
|
|
Post by brucew268 on Jul 13, 2024 9:19:47 GMT
Once I got the replacement board in the 6000CDT, I listened stock for a few weeks. The leading edges sounded more realistic than the server-player I’d been using and the mids fairly natural but not huge on body, overall, good imaging and staging. (This was prior to my changing the input voltage on the server-player.)
The factory config on the 6000CDT can sound a bit oversharp and could do better on the bass depth and texture. Changing out the main PSU caps for Panasonic FR gave an unnatural bump in part of the midrange and had other HF issues. I tried a couple other caps in its place and couldn’t get there. Something was off. I finally realised I had a fibre washer on the rear fixing of the CD mechanism, added last autumn and forgotten about! Out it came, and needed to re-listen to those caps!
Using FS improved both the HF edges and the bass depth and texture, but the tonality was a bit skewed. Using Nichicon HW skewed the tonality further, unnaturally dark! The frequency curve did not feel balanced or natural on either.
Finally, I got some FM caps, following Oli’s and Hoer-Wege’s recommendations. Hoer Wege bypasses those mains PSU caps with foil caps but I decided to take it slowly. I only replaced one of the two main PSU caps with the Panasonic FM and did not use a bypass cap. That means the other cap was the stock cap that tends to be a bit sharp. The combination's synergy is currently sounding pretty good and not sure I’ll go on.
If I end here, the only mods are the bridge rectifiers (Schottky) and the main PSU cap for the CD mechanism (Pan FM 2700uF). Will see how it sits with me after some days or weeks. I’ve gotten a bit tired of experiments that move the wrong direction in SQ and enjoyment. |
|
