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Post by brucew268 on Aug 17, 2023 11:20:29 GMT
What was the required output voltage and Amps for this, Bruce? This is just 5VDC/1.5A requring minimum input of 9VAC, though with one changed resistor it can produce anywhere up to 24VDC and supposedly still 1.5A (input 24VAC). With some mods I have a build doing 19VDC/4A. That one requires input of 22-23VAC. |
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Aug 17, 2023 11:24:26 GMT
What was the required output voltage and Amps for this, Bruce? This is just 5VDC/1.5A requring minimum input of 9VAC, though with one changed resistor it can produce anywhere up to 24VDC and supposedly still 1.5A (input 24VAC). With some mods I have a build doing 19VDC/4A. That one requires input of 22-23VAC. So this 5v one is the one you have written about? |
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Post by brucew268 on Aug 17, 2023 11:32:00 GMT
This is just 5VDC/1.5A requring minimum input of 9VAC, though with one changed resistor it can produce anywhere up to 24VDC and supposedly still 1.5A (input 24VAC). With some mods I have a build doing 19VDC/4A. That one requires input of 22-23VAC. So this 5v one is the one you have written about? Yes. |
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Post by brucew268 on Aug 21, 2023 17:53:45 GMT
Since the big Kemet ALS70 cap is laid on it's side, I tried a couple layers of 1mm neoprene rubber between it and the case. It gave a nice even balance across the frequency spectrum but after a while I noticed that the imaging had gone flat, no sense of depth to the images or stage. More the idea of instruments than the physicality. Dropped to 1 layer of rubber and slightly better. Pulled the rubber altogether and heard how many HF details that provide spacial cues had been missing. The imaging returned.
But I also noticed a hardness in one frequency band that affects saxaphone, vocals, and guitar. A harmonic perhaps. I suspected this was an issue with the rectifiers but didn't feel like the faff of desoldering them, maybe breaking one or two, and putting in others. So I decided instead to do something else on my general list of experiments and pull the three small caps that are part of the regulation stage, Wurth low ESR caps, and replace with some general purpose Panasonics (EB & EE). I didn't really expect I'd hear anything and would still have to sort the rectifiers. Wrong, the sound changed noticeably and the hardness was gone but so was some of the low level definition, the kind that shows up in soft cymbals played behind a small jazz ensemble.
I may order some Nichicon UFW and some Panasonic FC or FR and try those.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Aug 21, 2023 22:00:59 GMT
Since the big Kemet ALS70 cap is laid on it's side, I tried a couple layers of 1mm neoprene rubber between it and the case. It gave a nice even balance across the frequency spectrum but after a while I noticed that the imaging had gone flat, no sense of depth to the images or stage. More the idea of instruments than the physicality. Dropped to 1 layer of rubber and slightly better. Pulled the rubber altogether and heard how many HF details that provide spacial cues had been missing. The imaging returned.
But I also noticed a hardness in one frequency band that affects saxaphone, vocals, and guitar. A harmonic perhaps. I suspected this was an issue with the rectifiers but didn't feel like the faff of desoldering them, maybe breaking one or two, and putting in others. So I decided instead to do somerthimg else on my general list of experiments and pull the three small caps that are part of the regulation stage, Wurth low ESR caps, and replace with some general purpose Panasonics (EB & EE). I didn't really expect I'd hear anything and would still have to sort the rectifiers. Wrong, the sound changed noticeably and the hardness was gone but so was some of the low level definition, the kind that shows up in soft cymbals played behind a small jazz ensemble.
I may order some Nichicon UFW and some Panasonic FC or FR and try those.
It's a balancing act isn't it. Impress with your level of commitment though. It's usually me buying every capacitor under the sun to find ones I like the sound of 🤣 |
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optical
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Post by optical on Aug 22, 2023 7:42:42 GMT
Agree with Oli, great commitment Bruce.
Makes me slightly less embarrassed that I spent most of last night valve rolling between two phono stages and then trying them spliced from different outlets away from the 'digital' components outlet . . . .
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Post by brucew268 on Aug 24, 2023 17:29:19 GMT
At some point today it occurred to me that when I changed the small capacitors above I also switched mains leads on the Modulus 686 amplifier. I'd run it in on another component not in use at the moment and had I’d been meaning put it on the amplifier. I’d thought it wouldn’t really make any sound difference, perhaps a bit fuller deeper bass since it’s larger gauge. Well I forgot about it when I noticed the softness and slight loss of detail in the HF which I attributed to the different capacitors in the DAC’s power supply. Anyway, today I decided it couldn’t hurt to switch the amplifier mains lead back to what it was previously just to rule out that it had any effect on the HF issues I'm focused on. Besides, the replacement capacitors aren’t due to be delivered until tomorrow. Well knock me down with a feather! The HF issues seem to be resolved by using the old mains lead, and the midrange timbre and openness seems noticeably better, more natural and realistic.
The differences between mains leads: | Old | New | | 30 year unbranded, came with my Classe amplifier way back when. | New unbranded H07RN-F | | 1.5mm2 (14AWG) | 2.5mm2 | | All natural fillers between wires. | No fillers between wires just moulded rubber jacket. | Dense (rubber or PVC?) jacket
| Softer rubber jacket |
Takeaway: - I’m not sure which of these are the contributing factors, could be any or all, but I think I need to stick with that old mains lead!
- I’ve got some fresh capacitors (parts) arriving tomorrow, but might just want to leave well enough alone!
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Aug 24, 2023 18:38:36 GMT
At some point today it occurred to me that when I changed the small capacitors above I also switched mains leads on the Modulus 686 amplifier. I'd run it in on another component not in use at the moment and had I’d been meaning put it on the amplifier. I’d thought it wouldn’t really make any sound difference, perhaps a bit fuller deeper bass since it’s larger gauge. Well I forgot about it when I noticed the softness and slight loss of detail in the HF which I attributed to the different capacitors in the DAC’s power supply. Anyway, today I decided it couldn’t hurt to switch the amplifier mains lead back to what it was previously just to rule out that it had any effect on the HF issues I'm focused on. Besides, the replacement capacitors aren’t due to be delivered until tomorrow. Well knock me down with a feather! The HF issues seem to be resolved by using the old mains lead, and the midrange timbre and openness seems noticeably better, more natural and realistic.
The differences between mains leads: | Old | New | | 30 year unbranded, came with my Classe amplifier way back when. | New unbranded H07RN-F | | 1.5mm2 (14AWG) | 2.5mm2 | | All natural fillers between wires. | No fillers between wires just moulded rubber jacket. | Dense (rubber or PVC?) jacket
| Softer rubber jacket |
Takeaway: - I’m not sure which of these are the contributing factors, could be any or all, but I think I need to stick with that old mains lead!
- I’ve got some fresh capacitors (parts) arriving tomorrow, but might just want to leave well enough alone!
I did mention at some point that gauge is far more important than what the copper is. I can't tell from your post, but is the gauge different between the H07RN-F and the old cable? |
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Post by brucew268 on Aug 24, 2023 18:59:48 GMT
I did mention at some point that gauge is far more important than what the copper is. I can't tell from your post, but is the gauge different between the H07RN-F and the old cable? Yes, the old is 1.5mm and the new is 2.5mm... and the old sounds better on the amplifier.
BTW: I've often noticed signal and low voltage cables that the jacket and insulation make a difference to the sound. Damper materials tend to produce a damper sound. I'd thought that might happen when in January I changed the long umbilical from the wall to the distribution box, since H07RN-F has a damp rubber jacket -- but I didn't notice that happening. However as the 1m mains lead to the amplifier, that could be a factor. ...or it could be the gauge.
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optical
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Post by optical on Aug 24, 2023 19:22:52 GMT
I found small improvements going from some small gauge (1.5mm) to larger (2.5mm). I always had 2.5mm on the power amp and my speakers but recently have redone all the smaller components too.
It does sound better but the biggest improvement for me was going from stranded to solid core cable.
I think like a lot of these tweaks, including different isolation techniques/cables both power and interconnect, these can all add up to atune your system towards your listening preference.
I'm currently using valve equipment which perhaps could, at times, be accused of perhaps losing definition in favour of a big presentation.
Going solid core cabling has tightened up things a great deal. I do suspect though that if your system is already well defined and high on resolution/detail (likely SS gear), using solid core could tip the balance into slightly analytical.
That's just my experience in my system anyway.
As Oli has said before, using unshielded mains cable if you can, does yield interesting (usually better) results.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Aug 24, 2023 23:00:03 GMT
I did mention at some point that gauge is far more important than what the copper is. I can't tell from your post, but is the gauge different between the H07RN-F and the old cable? Yes, the old is 1.5mm and the new is 2.5mm... and the old sounds better on the amplifier.
BTW: I've often noticed signal and low voltage cables that the jacket and insulation make a difference to the sound. Damper materials tend to produce a damper sound. I'd thought that might happen when in January I changed the long umbilical from the wall to the distribution box, since H07RN-F has a damp rubber jacket -- but I didn't notice that happening. However as the 1m mains lead to the amplifier, that could be a factor. ...or it could be the gauge.
It's not expensive to find out.... But if it's sounding right, I wouldn't blame you if you left it as is. |
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Aug 24, 2023 23:03:09 GMT
I found small improvements going from some small gauge (1.5mm) to larger (2.5mm). I always had 2.5mm on the power amp and my speakers but recently have redone all the smaller components too. It does sound better but the biggest improvement for me was going from stranded to solid core cable. I think like a lot of these tweaks, including different isolation techniques/cables both power and interconnect, these can all add up to atune your system towards your listening preference. I'm currently using valve equipment which perhaps could, at times, be accused of perhaps losing definition in favour of a big presentation. Going solid core cabling has tightened up things a great deal. I do suspect though that if your system is already well defined and high on resolution/detail (likely SS gear), using solid core could tip the balance into slightly analytical. That's just my experience in my system anyway. As Oli has said before, using unshielded mains cable if you can, does yield interesting (usually better) results. Totally agree with the part about solid core and stranded. |
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Post by brucew268 on Aug 28, 2023 19:27:41 GMT
In the regulator circuit (post regulator): I would have thought the choice of small caps here would not have an effect on the sound, but they definitely did. Generally, low ESR is not the goal here, but that issue is well managed by ceramic, tantalum, or film caps, leaving you free to choose the caps you like.
Curiously, the Chinese kits includes a Jamicon TH cap here at 100uF/25V, which can’t be a real Jamicon because those start at 160V and go up from there. Jamicon TH are high ripple caps, so maybe this fake is made to be high ripple? I can’t measure. It seems that Wurth WCAP-ATLI (low ESR) give nice detail but do not play well with the detail the Wolfspeed rectifiers give. An unmusical in your face result.
Panasonic EB & EE caps (gen purpose) give a good frequency balance and natural sound but the HF details, especially leading edges are a little too smooth, slightly soft. Nichicon FW caps have been praised by a number of DIYers as rather balanced but here they mess with the timbre, so yanked them. Panasonic FC caps are high ripple and low impedance and often my default here… and they fixed all the problems noted above. Had to be in all three positions, not just one of them.
FC also sounds pretty good as the output electrolytic cap (330uF or 470uF) but there I prefer the Nichicon FG for openness, imaging, and just a little sparkle. I also prefer the Mundorf EVO Supreme film cap at output over the Wima MKP for the same reason.  20230827_110044 by BruceW, on Flickr BTW: I’m waiting on a new PSU enclosure from Breeze Audio (AlieEx) for better size and styling, but they are not doing right by me. Waited 10 days to even create a tracking number. Now two weeks later, the Chinese carrier says they are still waiting for it to be handed to them and Parcelforce says they don’t have it in their system either. The seller claims they’ve sent it and that everything is OK with the Chinese carrier – obviously not true. So if lost, it’s lost enough that neither country’s carriers know where it is. If not lost, then the seller is trying to get away with something. Time to file a dispute with AliEx. |
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Post by antonio on Aug 29, 2023 6:08:48 GMT
brucew268 Don't envy you filing a dispute with AE, not a simple task if I remember right, although I did get my refund. It may still turn up since I don't know if even the supplier can track these things. Good luck and hope the case finds you safely.
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Post by brucew268 on Aug 29, 2023 8:18:41 GMT
brucew268 Don't envy you filing a dispute with AE, not a simple task if I remember right, although I did get my refund. It may still turn up since I don't know if even the supplier can track these things. Good luck and hope the case finds you safely. Though it's been 14 days since the seller claims to have posted it, AE says I must wait an additional 15 days before requesting a refund. |
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Post by antonio on Aug 29, 2023 16:18:34 GMT
I believe that happened to me when I wanted a refund when in Cambodia, on one occasion the goods did arrive, it was the local courier who was at fault.
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