Bigman80
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The HiFi Bear/Audioaddicts/Bigbottle Owner
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Post by Bigman80 on Jun 11, 2020 9:20:08 GMT
Make sure it's very well cleaned , apply an undercoat , and as Oli says , lots of thin coats . Read the instructions regarding distance from object . Always wear a mask  Top tips Brian |
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Post by mikeyb on Jun 11, 2020 9:29:04 GMT
Get someone else to do it 😉
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Post by jimbo on Jun 11, 2020 10:02:42 GMT
Is it best to rub down with wet and dry first to get rid of the rust?
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Bigman80
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The HiFi Bear/Audioaddicts/Bigbottle Owner
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Post by Bigman80 on Jun 11, 2020 10:15:59 GMT
Is it best to rub down with wet and dry first to get rid of the rust? Yes lol |
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Post by jimbo on Jun 11, 2020 10:32:58 GMT
Is it best to rub down with wet and dry first to get rid of the rust? Yes lol Cheers, doing a major salvage job. |
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jun 11, 2020 10:33:56 GMT
Cheers, doing a major salvage job. What on? |
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Post by jimbo on Jun 11, 2020 10:51:43 GMT
I will let you know when I have done it because if I screw up it will not be something I want to talk about. lol
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jun 11, 2020 10:57:26 GMT
I will let you know when I have done it because if I screw up it will not be something I want to talk about. lol Hahahahaha |
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Post by jimbo on Jun 11, 2020 11:03:36 GMT
I will let you know when I have done it because if I screw up it will not be something I want to talk about. lol Hahahahaha Could be a disaste!? |
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Bigman80
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The HiFi Bear/Audioaddicts/Bigbottle Owner
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Post by Bigman80 on Jun 11, 2020 11:14:36 GMT
Could be a disaste!? Come on, share it!!!!!!!! |
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Post by firebottle on Jun 11, 2020 11:31:50 GMT
The only thing that copes with rust is Hammerite, clean it well.
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Post by brian2957 on Jun 11, 2020 12:15:46 GMT
Yup , may need a good quality primer James |
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JimBlog
Jun 11, 2020 12:41:58 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2020 12:41:58 GMT
Check what the base material is, if it's steel, use a standard primer, give it a couple of coats and flat it back lightly with 400 grit wet and dry and water then spray the topcoat.
If it's aluminum you want etch primer otherwise the paint will peel off in 2 seconds flat.
When you do the top coat, stick the can a bowl of warm water for half an hour first to heat the can up to a bit over room temp, and shake it very well.
This will get the paint into the correct temp range, and stop you getting large blobs of paint coming out of the can. also heat up the piece to be painted with a hairdryer to a bit over room temp. Not hot, or the paint will dry as soon as it hits and you will get a crap finish. This will help the paint to adhere evenly.
If you want a gloss finish, use a good clearcoat, build up a good few coats and leave it to cure overnight, then the next day flat it back with 1200 grit paper and water. Dry it, then t cut it to a high gloss finish, be careful not to sand back through the clearcoat
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JimBlog
Jun 11, 2020 13:47:02 GMT
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Post by sq225917 on Jun 11, 2020 13:47:02 GMT
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Post by jimbo on Jun 11, 2020 14:39:35 GMT
Check what the base material is, if it's steel, use a standard primer, give it a couple of coats and flat it back lightly with 400 grit wet and dry and water then spray the topcoat. If it's aluminum you want etch primer otherwise the paint will peel off in 2 seconds flat. When you do the top coat, stick the can a bowl of warm water for half an hour first to heat the can up to a bit over room temp, and shake it very well. This will get the paint into the correct temp range, and stop you getting large blobs of paint coming out of the can. also heat up the piece to be painted with a hairdryer to a bit over room temp. Not hot, or the paint will dry as soon as it hits and you will get a crap finish. This will help the paint to adhere evenly. If you want a gloss finish, use a good clearcoat, build up a good few coats and leave it to cure overnight, then the next day flat it back with 1200 grit paper and water. Dry it, then t cut it to a high gloss finish, be careful not to sand back through the clearcoat Thanks for the advice Ant. That looks like a method for a proper job! |
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Post by antonio on Jun 11, 2020 14:59:58 GMT
Cancelled post
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2020 15:16:59 GMT
Looking forward to your impressions The AT95EX is going to take a lot to beat. I have been hoping to do this evaluation for the last month so looking forward to the weekend very much.
You still have not tried the AT95-Frankencart? |
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Post by jimbo on Jun 11, 2020 15:34:26 GMT
The AT95EX is going to take a lot to beat. I have been hoping to do this evaluation for the last month so looking forward to the weekend very much.
You still have not tried the AT95-Frankencart? I know, now I have another headshell this will happen. |
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JimBlog
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2020 16:38:19 GMT
Check what the base material is, if it's steel, use a standard primer, give it a couple of coats and flat it back lightly with 400 grit wet and dry and water then spray the topcoat. If it's aluminum you want etch primer otherwise the paint will peel off in 2 seconds flat. When you do the top coat, stick the can a bowl of warm water for half an hour first to heat the can up to a bit over room temp, and shake it very well. This will get the paint into the correct temp range, and stop you getting large blobs of paint coming out of the can. also heat up the piece to be painted with a hairdryer to a bit over room temp. Not hot, or the paint will dry as soon as it hits and you will get a crap finish. This will help the paint to adhere evenly. If you want a gloss finish, use a good clearcoat, build up a good few coats and leave it to cure overnight, then the next day flat it back with 1200 grit paper and water. Dry it, then t cut it to a high gloss finish, be careful not to sand back through the clearcoat Thanks for the advice Ant. That looks like a method for a proper job! This is how I was taught to do it 20 odd years ago by a chap who was a paint sprayer for 30 odd years before that. He could do a job with a rattlecan that you would swear was a factory finish! I ain't good enough to get that kind of finish though.... It always pays to put in the prep work, most spray jobs that look crap are because the prep was skipped, and the painter didn't let the paint cure fully before flatting back. Get the primer right and you'll get a good finish, put in the time and patience and you can get very good results from rattlecans |
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Post by jimbo on Jun 11, 2020 18:02:45 GMT
Brilliant Ant, i will definitely follow this procedure.
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Post by jimbo on Jun 14, 2020 20:23:10 GMT
And to finish off my weekend here is the finished result of some painting I did...   |
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Post by rexton on Jun 14, 2020 20:29:26 GMT
Great write up and I suspected the M55e would be victorious. I wonder if the stylus profile on the JICO could do with a little -ve rake angle like on the Cadenza Black FGS? I only say this because the JICO stylus is supposed to mimic the diamond on the cutting lathe and like the CB-FGS things do appear to get better with the tonearm's rear sitting up a little. I'll be having a play with mine on the 401/SME v-12 combo at some point to see if this theory works.
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Post by jimbo on Jun 14, 2020 20:49:39 GMT
Thanks Andy, i have actually got the tonearm's rear up a little a it is my go to position and the bottom of the cartridge is almost flat with the record. Azimuth looks spot on and I am getting a nice wide soundstage.
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Post by rexton on Jun 14, 2020 21:00:12 GMT
Thanks Andy, i have actually got the tonearm's rear up a little a it is my go to position and the bottom of the cartridge is almost flat with the record. Azimuth looks spot on and I am getting a nice wide soundstage. Fantastic. I'm still learning my lesson from setting up the CB-FGS, something I'd forgotton 8 years previous, what a PITA!!!!!  I'm dicking around with the 1210 at the moment I'll have to set the 401 up again and then start experimenting with negative rake on the M55e.  Really good write up! |
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Post by jimbo on Jun 14, 2020 21:02:09 GMT
Forgot how good the M55e was to be honest. Got me thinking of the SAS Boron stylus now!
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Bigman80
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The HiFi Bear/Audioaddicts/Bigbottle Owner
Posts: 16,401
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Post by Bigman80 on Jun 14, 2020 21:42:06 GMT
And to finish off my weekend here is the finished result of some painting I did... Looks good! |
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Post by gninnam on Jun 14, 2020 22:22:01 GMT
Interesting result with the cartridges - the SAS stylus could be a deal breaker if it all gels together, not sure how it will work with the arm? Plus, nice job on the top plate |
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Post by antonio on Jun 15, 2020 4:57:31 GMT
Top plate looks great.
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Post by jimbo on Jun 15, 2020 5:43:19 GMT
Interesting result with the cartridges - the SAS stylus could be a deal breaker if it all gels together, not sure how it will work with the arm? Plus, nice job on the top plate Thanks Andy, took 6 coats but quite pleased with the finish. It looks very close to the original. I dont think I will be going down the SAS route just yet as they are a bit pricey and I have a spare 2M Black I can spanner in which is even better. |
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Post by mikeyb on Jun 15, 2020 6:52:44 GMT
Interesting result with the cartridges - the SAS stylus could be a deal breaker if it all gels together, not sure how it will work with the arm? Plus, nice job on the top plate Thanks Andy, took 6 coats but quite pleased with the finish. It looks very close to the original. I dont think I will be going down the SAS route just yet as they are a bit pricey and I have a spare 2M Black I can spanner in which is even better. I've had the M55e/Jico SAS combo and I wasn't keen on it so sold it on, there was something about the tone on certain instruments that I didn't like. Mind you I've had a 2m Black too and didn't like that either so what do I know 😂 |
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I'm dicking around with the 1210 at the moment I'll have to set the 401 up again and then start experimenting with negative rake on the M55e. 
Really good write up! 