dt79
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Post by dt79 on Jul 2, 2021 7:16:56 GMT
Hi all - If I want to create loading plugs for my BB3 are there any particular types of resistors and capacitors I should be going for, for quality’s sake?
Also anyone know where you can go and buy them singularly, rather than in batches of 100, 98 of which will end up in a drawer in my garage forever!
Thanks! Dan
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dt79
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Posts: 339
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Post by dt79 on Jul 3, 2021 9:14:44 GMT
Hi all,
I have found some capacitors and resistors on Farnell, do these look OK?
Cornell-Dubliner ‘Silver Mica’ capacitors. I went for those ones as they seemed to be the only ones with a 1% tolerance. All the other types seemed to be at least +/- 5%.
For resistors I found Vishay ‘axial leaded’ or ‘wirewound’ resistors (depending on the value).
What do you reckon? I’m not sure if there are types to be preferred or avoided for this application.
I’m appreciate some advice.
Thanks Dan
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jul 3, 2021 9:30:25 GMT
Hi all, I have found some capacitors and resistors on Farnell, do these look OK? Cornell-Dubliner ‘Silver Mica’ capacitors. I went for those ones as they seemed to be the only ones with a 1% tolerance. All the other types seemed to be at least +/- 5%. For resistors I found Vishay ‘axial leaded’ or ‘wirewound’ resistors (depending on the value). What do you reckon? I’m not sure if there are types to be preferred or avoided for this application. I’m appreciate some advice. Thanks Dan Hi Dan... Sorry, only just seen this. As long as the caps are Polypropelyne then you are ok to use anything. If you let me know what value you want, i may have some spares here. Use Metal Film resistors. Vishay are fine. I don't think i'd have picked Silver Mica, but they may be awesome!
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Post by firebottle on Jul 3, 2021 12:18:30 GMT
Silver Mica is a very good dielectric. I would choose Polystyrene for the loading caps, +/- 5% is perfectly acceptable for loading caps as the sonic change is a lot less than resistive variance, IMO.
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Post by sq225917 on Jul 3, 2021 15:01:09 GMT
For loading resistors I use Dale RN or RC, I have them in pretty much every value from 5 to 500 ohm. Sometimes a little difference make a big change, 90-100-110 on an ortofon black is quite a profound difference.
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dt79
Junior Member
Posts: 339
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Post by dt79 on Jul 3, 2021 16:42:44 GMT
Hi all, I have found some capacitors and resistors on Farnell, do these look OK? Cornell-Dubliner ‘Silver Mica’ capacitors. I went for those ones as they seemed to be the only ones with a 1% tolerance. All the other types seemed to be at least +/- 5%. For resistors I found Vishay ‘axial leaded’ or ‘wirewound’ resistors (depending on the value). What do you reckon? I’m not sure if there are types to be preferred or avoided for this application. I’m appreciate some advice. Thanks Dan Hi Dan... Sorry, only just seen this. As long as the caps are Polypropelyne then you are ok to use anything. If you let me know what value you want, i may have some spares here. Use Metal Film resistors. Vishay are fine. I don't think i'd have picked Silver Mica, but they may be awesome! Thanks Ollie, and all. I’ve got a number of new and vintage MMs coming to do some experimentation and playing around so I want to be able to tailor the capacitance loading in roughly 50ohm increments. I worked out that my capacitance is currently 313pF which is pretty high as a baseline (BB3 = 150, interconnects = 135, internal tonearm wiring = 28). I’ve ordered some low capacitance interconnects of around 50pF (for 1.25m), so with those my baseline will be 228pF which should be fine and not sure I can get it much lower anyway. I was going to get 50, 100, 150, 200 pF if all those values are available. I might hold off on the resistors for now, I still only have the Cadenza MC, and have plenty of MMs to play with for the time being. Any tips on where to buy? Farnell seems good and at least you can buy them singularly. Cheers Dan
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jul 3, 2021 16:58:29 GMT
Hi Dan... Sorry, only just seen this. As long as the caps are Polypropelyne then you are ok to use anything. If you let me know what value you want, i may have some spares here. Use Metal Film resistors. Vishay are fine. I don't think i'd have picked Silver Mica, but they may be awesome! Thanks Ollie, and all. I’ve got a number of new and vintage MMs coming to do some experimentation and playing around so I want to be able to tailor the capacitance loading in roughly 50ohm increments. I worked out that my capacitance is currently 313pF which is pretty high as a baseline (BB3 = 150, interconnects = 135, internal tonearm wiring = 28). I’ve ordered some low capacitance interconnects of around 50pF (for 1.25m), so with those my baseline will be 228pF which should be fine and not sure I can get it much lower anyway. I was going to get 50, 100, 150, 200 pF if all those values are available. I might hold off on the resistors for now, I still only have the Cadenza MC, and have plenty of MMs to play with for the time being. Any tips on where to buy? Farnell seems good and at least you can buy them singularly. Cheers Dan Yeah, Farnell is good. No drama there.
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Post by firebottle on Jul 3, 2021 17:20:32 GMT
The standard values will be 47,100,150 and 220pF.
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dt79
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Post by dt79 on Jul 3, 2021 18:05:07 GMT
@bigman80 firebottle Gents, sorry to be useless, but I cannot for the life of me find Polystyrene caps to buy and when I look for polypropylene caps i can’t find any of the values I want. When I search Farnell I get loads of results with recognised brands and the right values, but the items themselves don’t mention polystyrene or polypropylene so I’m not sure. I’m very much out of my depth here. Would you mind posting a link to something suitable please. If they can be purchased singularly so much the better, but I won’t be picky at this point! Thanks for all your help so far!
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jul 3, 2021 18:14:13 GMT
@bigman80 firebottle Gents, sorry to be useless, but I cannot for the life of me find Polystyrene caps to buy and when I look for polypropylene caps i can’t find any of the values I want. When I search Farnell I get loads of results with recognised brands and the right values, but the items themselves don’t mention polystyrene or polypropylene so I’m not sure. I’m very much out of my depth here. Would you mind posting a link to something suitable please. If they can be purchased singularly so much the better, but I won’t be picky at this point! Thanks for all your help so far! "The standard values will be 47,100,150 and 220pF" You may be better off looking on eBay. I usually find single caps on there for little cost and as long as it's polypropylene, you'll be fine. WIMA FKP or MKP.
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dt79
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Posts: 339
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Post by dt79 on Jul 3, 2021 18:19:21 GMT
@bigman80 firebottle Gents, sorry to be useless, but I cannot for the life of me find Polystyrene caps to buy and when I look for polypropylene caps i can’t find any of the values I want. When I search Farnell I get loads of results with recognised brands and the right values, but the items themselves don’t mention polystyrene or polypropylene so I’m not sure. I’m very much out of my depth here. Would you mind posting a link to something suitable please. If they can be purchased singularly so much the better, but I won’t be picky at this point! Thanks for all your help so far! "The standard values will be 47,100,150 and 220pF" You may be better off looking on eBay. I usually find single caps on there for little cost and as long as it's polypropylene, you'll be fine. WIMA FKP or MKP. Thanks Ollie
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dt79
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Posts: 339
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Post by dt79 on Jul 3, 2021 18:38:01 GMT
@bigman80 firebottle Gents, sorry to be useless, but I cannot for the life of me find Polystyrene caps to buy and when I look for polypropylene caps i can’t find any of the values I want. When I search Farnell I get loads of results with recognised brands and the right values, but the items themselves don’t mention polystyrene or polypropylene so I’m not sure. I’m very much out of my depth here. Would you mind posting a link to something suitable please. If they can be purchased singularly so much the better, but I won’t be picky at this point! Thanks for all your help so far! "The standard values will be 47,100,150 and 220pF" You may be better off looking on eBay. I usually find single caps on there for little cost and as long as it's polypropylene, you'll be fine. WIMA FKP or MKP. OK all sorted. Got myself the WIMA FKPs in the values mentioned above from ebay. Also managed to find the same Amphenol RCA plugs that you used for my R100 plugs on Farnell. Appreciate the help from you, firebottle and sq225917
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jul 3, 2021 18:39:08 GMT
"The standard values will be 47,100,150 and 220pF" You may be better off looking on eBay. I usually find single caps on there for little cost and as long as it's polypropylene, you'll be fine. WIMA FKP or MKP. OK all sorted. Got myself the WIMA FKPs in the values mentioned above from ebay. Also managed to find the same Amphenol RCA plugs that you used for my R100 plugs on Farnell. Appreciate the help from you, firebottle and sq225917 Excellent! Well done. Sourcing parts is a ballache, as you've seen lol
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dt79
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Posts: 339
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Post by dt79 on Jul 18, 2021 8:14:08 GMT
OK all sorted. Got myself the WIMA FKPs in the values mentioned above from ebay. Also managed to find the same Amphenol RCA plugs that you used for my R100 plugs on Farnell. Appreciate the help from you, firebottle and sq225917 Excellent! Well done. Sourcing parts is a ballache, as you've seen lol I’ve finally got around to doing this. Does this look OK? I know that it’s not the tidiest soldering job, but I am rather a novice where it comes to this and it seems solid enough. Specifically is it OK for the body of the capacitor to be in contact with the silver terminal? This is the only position where both the legs of the capacitor reach what I need to solder them to, and the capacitor is tucked in enough that I can screw the body of the plug back on. Thanks! Dan
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jul 18, 2021 8:15:46 GMT
Excellent! Well done. Sourcing parts is a ballache, as you've seen lol I’ve finally got around to doing this. Does this look OK? I know that it’s not the tidiest soldering job, but I am rather a novice where it comes to this and it seems solid enough. Specifically is it OK for the body of the capacitor to be in contact with the silver terminal? This is the only position where both the legs of the capacitor reach what I need to solder them to, and the capacitor is tucked in enough that I can screw the body of the plug back on. Thanks! Dan View AttachmentThat's the idea. I'd put the one leg in the solder cup, but if it works, it works!
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dt79
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Post by dt79 on Jul 18, 2021 8:28:39 GMT
I’ve finally got around to doing this. Does this look OK? I know that it’s not the tidiest soldering job, but I am rather a novice where it comes to this and it seems solid enough. Specifically is it OK for the body of the capacitor to be in contact with the silver terminal? This is the only position where both the legs of the capacitor reach what I need to solder them to, and the capacitor is tucked in enough that I can screw the body of the plug back on. Thanks! Dan View AttachmentThat's the idea. I'd put the one leg in the solder cup, but if it works, it works! Thanks Ollie. If I put one leg all the way in the solder cup then the other one won’t reach the bit at the other end where it’s currently soldered to. If I solder that to a closer part of the silver terminal then the body of the capacitor sits too high and the plug body won’t go back on. This just about seems to work. Cheers!
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jul 18, 2021 9:18:05 GMT
That's the idea. I'd put the one leg in the solder cup, but if it works, it works! Thanks Ollie. If I put one leg all the way in the solder cup then the other one won’t reach the bit at the other end where it’s currently soldered to. If I solder that to a closer part of the silver terminal then the body of the capacitor sits too high and the plug body won’t go back on. This just about seems to work. Cheers! All of that metal is the "return" so you can solder anywhere along it. You can also cut the excess off and you don't need to bend the legs at all 👍
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dt79
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Posts: 339
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Post by dt79 on Jul 18, 2021 10:24:06 GMT
I managed to do 2 just about, but this is beyond me. I don’t have enough hands, the soldering iron seems unpredictable in terms of whether it wants to actually melt solder or not and because you have to get the capacitor in precisely the right place so that the plug body fits back over, its damn near impossible to get both legs to reach where they need to go at the same time. I think the legs on the 47pF ones seem to have been a smidgen longer which is why I just about managed to do those, but I’ve just spent an hour of fiddling and not been able to do another one. I had to stop before something gets thrown through a window.
I just don’t think I have the skills for this
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Post by stryder5 on Jul 18, 2021 10:32:36 GMT
Extend the legs, solder on a length of wire?
Gary
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dt79
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Post by dt79 on Jul 18, 2021 10:49:33 GMT
Extend the legs, solder on a length of wire? Gary I did try that but it wouldn’t take. I may need to look at my soldering iron, I think that might be half the problem.
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Post by sq225917 on Jul 18, 2021 11:33:03 GMT
For my own use I use Vishay/beyschlag melf resistors, little smt 250mW jobs. 0207 size.
Just lean em over between centre pin and outer at and angle, you can then solder caps to these for mm duty if required.
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Post by macca on Jul 18, 2021 12:23:25 GMT
Extend the legs, solder on a length of wire? Gary I did try that but it wouldn’t take. I may need to look at my soldering iron, I think that might be half the problem. Are you using silver solder? If so you need a powerful iron. Otherwise your iron is knackered or crap.
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dt79
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Post by dt79 on Jul 18, 2021 19:10:04 GMT
I did try that but it wouldn’t take. I may need to look at my soldering iron, I think that might be half the problem. Are you using silver solder? If so you need a powerful iron. Otherwise your iron is knackered or crap. Yes silver solder. I don’t know much about soldering irons. It’s a 12w iron and the tip is a fine point. I do have a range of other tips if a different shape is better.
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Post by karma67 on Jul 18, 2021 19:11:36 GMT
Are you using silver solder? If so you need a powerful iron. Otherwise your iron is knackered or crap. Yes silver solder. I don’t know much about soldering irons. It’s a 12w iron and the tip is a fine point. I do have a range of other tips if a different shape is better. ok stupid question but you are using solder with a small amount of silver added and not solder for soldering silver yes?
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dt79
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Post by dt79 on Jul 18, 2021 19:55:09 GMT
Yes silver solder. I don’t know much about soldering irons. It’s a 12w iron and the tip is a fine point. I do have a range of other tips if a different shape is better. ok stupid question but you are using solder with a small amount of silver added and not solder for soldering silver yes? Well, maybe not such a stupid question. I certainly intended to purchase the former! I will check.
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Bigman80
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Post by Bigman80 on Jul 18, 2021 19:55:14 GMT
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dt79
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Post by dt79 on Jul 18, 2021 20:19:13 GMT
Thank you Ollie, will do.
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Post by macca on Jul 19, 2021 5:52:06 GMT
Are you using silver solder? If so you need a powerful iron. Otherwise your iron is knackered or crap. Yes silver solder. I don’t know much about soldering irons. It’s a 12w iron and the tip is a fine point. I do have a range of other tips if a different shape is better. I had the same problem using silver solder which is why I mentioned it. My iron was not powerful enough and at the time (1990s) I didn't have the cash to buy a suitable one. I think I still have the silver solder somewhere.
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Post by stryder5 on Jul 19, 2021 7:46:54 GMT
Are you using silver solder? If so you need a powerful iron. Otherwise your iron is knackered or crap. Yes silver solder. I don’t know much about soldering irons. It’s a 12w iron and the tip is a fine point. I do have a range of other tips if a different shape is better. A fine point won’t transfer enough heat, you need an angled face tip. 12w is quite low. Gary
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Post by sq225917 on Jul 19, 2021 19:13:10 GMT
12w is too small I use a 40w temp controlled and solder at 280 degrees, more thermal mass and quicker is better for soldering.
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